RELEASE DATE: 01 Aug, 2010


And so it begins. This publication is the product of the collaborative effort of over twenty individuals from four continents - aged eighteen to over sixty. Our mission is simple: to provide quality journalism from Bolivia in English. In this issue we have sought to explore extremes: from the most expensive haircut in La Paz to one of the cheapest, from the glossy world of advertising to the salty shores of Bolivia’s former coastline. In what has been a breathtaking journey (you will know what we mean by this if you have experienced sorojchi) we have put together a collection of chronicles which chart our footsteps over gravel, stone, asphalt and a few potholes. We have learnt much during our time here but have unfortunately forgotten most of it. All that has remained is the following: knowing when to stop asking questions and start listening, when to stop taking pictures and start looking, and most importantly, that no matter what you buy at the Witches’ Market you will never pass for a Boliviano. In this sense, we aim to steer you away from the gringo trail and allow you to share in the condor’s eye. Read us, work with us, write home about us. You are always welcome aboard the Bolivian Express.


El Mundial In Bolivia

26 Jul, 2010 | Tom Farr

A Global Phenomenon. El Mundial. The World Cup. Le Coupe Du Monde. For one month every four years the world is overcome by football fever and Bolivia is no different, despite the fact that the last (a...

Borracho Estaba e Hice Una Película

26 Jul, 2010 | Edward Bell

“El Cementerio de los elefantes” is a cross between a 1990´s B-Movie and a documentary by Louis Theroux. The budget comes across quite clearly with the quaint cinematography, Nollywood acting, and th...

¡Oye, Profes! Leave those kids alone

26 Jul, 2010 | Andrew Cummings

As a student in the UK, I’m more than mildly aware that for the majority of eighteen- and nineteen-year-olds there, university is the next logical step after college. For many, university is about mo...

Comic Encounters: La Paz's Comic Artists

26 Jul, 2010 | Edwina Popescu

Extreme hill-climbing was apparently inevitable in the quest for fine Bolivian modern art. After the heart-splittingly steep trek up the calle Blesario Salinas, I could taste the blood at the back of...

Busking in La Paz

26 Jul, 2010 | William Barns Graham

Going into the heart of La Paz with the sun beaming down upon me and my guitar on my back, dressed down in order not to look too much like a tourist, I was filled with a great apprehension. In Europe...

Coca vs Cola

26 Jul, 2010 | Camille Reltien

About 70 km from La Paz, a field of coca plants clings to the steep slopes of Las Yungas. This transitional zone between dry highlands and humid lowlands provides the ideal climate for the most stigma...

Death Road!

25 Aug, 2011 | Eleanor Potter

Death Road is a pretty scary name, and it led at least one of our group (namely myself) to be more than a little hesitant about taking up the challenge in the first place! Let me just explain the...

Crossfest, Santa Cruz

25 Aug, 2011 | Gabriel Kumontoy

All four of us are still dog tagged in our wrists – we’re all blue (VIP) members of Crossfest 2011 even though we had left Santa Cruz four days ago, and will still continue to be for months to come un...

Recuperar, recuperar, el litoral y el ancho mar

22 Jul, 2010 | Camille Reltien

“¿Rendirme yo? ¡Que se rinda su abuela, carajo!” According to the story, these were the dying words of Eduardo Avaroa Hidalgo at the battle of Topater on the 23rd of March 1879. On this day, Bolivia l...

In this fair city

22 Jul, 2010 | Amaru Villanueva Rance and Ernestine Roeters van Lennep

A pirated version of Windows 7 in Spanish (Bs.7), a live baby snake (Bs.150), a snake carcass (Bs.75), a 42-inch plasma screen (Bs.10,000), Mao t-shirts (Bs.3-15), a neon Jesus statue (Bs.25), Indones...


25 Aug, 2011 | Kirsty Hough

Our first site of Rurrenabaque was of the small airfield that comprised a collection of huts and an airstrip with cows and pigs grazing on it. The plane journey had been interesting, with the plane be...

Tall, White and English Speaking

22 Jul, 2010 | George Dallas

“We are tall, white, and speak English,” were the infamous words of Gabriela Oviedo (the then Miss Bolivia) in 2004 when trying to dispel a purported stereotype about Bolivian people. The number of wh...

Salar de Uyuni

25 Aug, 2011 | Tim Deeks

Having gone ahead to the bus station to bribe the bus driver to delay the bus to Uyuni to give the girls time to arrive back from Rurrenabaque, I made a new friend on the 12 hour journey. Lucio seeme...