ISSUE 2
EDITORIAL BY
N.B. Several Spanish and Aymara words are marked in bold throughout this issue. Their meanings can be found in the glossary on the last page.
--Xenia Elsaesser and Andrew Cummings
ARTICLES FROM THIS ISSUE
Maphrao On Review
26 Jul, 2010 | Edwina Popescu and William Barns Graham
Peering in at the candle-lit interior of Asian restaurant Maphrao On, you cannot help but be drawn in by the wooden furnishings and Asian objets d’intérêt creating a romantic but homely atmosphere. As...
Paceño Style
27 Aug, 2010 | Olivia Alter and Katie Lark
Forget bowler hats, long skirts, shawls and plaits - there’s more to Bolivian fashion than the cholita uniform. We headed to the city centre, around San Francisco, to see what other styles we could f...
Bolivia's Real Death Road
27 Aug, 2010 | Emma Hall
On entering the Cementerio General of La Paz, the presence of Catholic and generally European traditions related to death struck me straight away. Cholitas had unearthed black variants of their tradit...
Quién va a sembrar la tierra?
27 Aug, 2010 | Xenia Elsaesser
Who will sow the land? The Jalqas sow the land. When I decided to join the Jalqas I did not realise the gravity of what I was undertaking. Enticed by merrily leaping couples, it seemed like a fun danc...
We'll Have A Gay Old Time
27 Aug, 2010 | Andrew Cummings
‘Chicken’, noun: as well as referring to the animal, the word can colloquially mean ‘cowardly’, alluding to a certain deficiency in one’s virility. But Evo Morales seems to believe that the link betwe...
Blue Nightclub Review
27 Aug, 2010 | Olivia Alter
Now Blue really is the place to be on a Saturday night. Or any night for that matter. Whether you want to or not, you will end up at Blue on a night out. Blue is a bit like Marmite: you may find a...
My Super Sweet Fifteen
27 Aug, 2010 | Anna Hunter
The church blessing, the Cinderella gown, the bouquet, the tiered cream cake, the first dance…all little girls dream of this day. The average schoolgirl has to make do with playing Polly Pocket weddin...
Hanging Out With The Lustrabotas
27 Aug, 2010 | Deborah Bender
The lustrabotas are the young boys who offer to shine your shoes on the streets of La Paz. You will also find them running to your side with their shoeshine kit if you chance to sit on a bench in one...
Forum Nightclub Review
27 Aug, 2010 | Olivia Alter
Apparently, Forum is the place to be on a Saturday night in La Paz, but on two conditions: you look good enough (or often even white enough...), and you can make it through the hour or so of Latino-mu...
Wagamama Review
26 Jul, 2010 | Edwina Popescu
Japanese restaurant Wagamama is tucked away behind notorious “Gringo bar” “Traffic”. Meaning “picky and demanding”, Wagamama has an extensive menu with the potential to satisfy even the most “wagamama...
Customary Moralety
27 Aug, 2010 | Alistair Smout
It’s not often that a president who returns with 64% of the popular vote (nearly 40% more than their nearest rival) faces stern political opposition eight months into their presidency, but then, Evo M...
Viñetas con Altura
27 Aug, 2010 | Lorange Dao and Tanja Roembke
Although we arrived more than 30 minutes late to the MUSEF (Museo Nacional de Etnografía y Folklore), where Viñetas con Altura was being held, the conference had not yet begun. An eclectic selection o...
My Big Fat Bolivian Wedding
27 Aug, 2010 | Deborah Bender and Rishum Butt
"And so the prince in shining armour rides gallantly upon his white stallion across strange and foreign lands, high and low, all in search of his beloved, so that he may take her and wed her in holy m...
Café Beirut Review
27 Aug, 2010 | Tanja Roembke
The Middle Eastern restaurant Café Beirut has a nice Arabic flair, with one wall completely covered with pipes of varying sizes; it also boasts a lot of sitting space and a separate lounge area to smo...
Cafe Arábica Review
27 Aug, 2010 | Emma Hall
Along the extensive 20 de Octubre strip of eateries comes Cafe Arábica (as long as you can manage to resist the temptation of Chocolate Caliente one door down). Entering the cafe, you could be anywher...
One Last August Rite
27 Aug, 2010 | Niall Maccrann
I couldn’t help myself. Bolivia’s festive fever swept me up and carried me off to where I wasn’t supposed to be, to Copacabana’s celebrations. As I was assigned to report on everything that wasn’t Aug...
Ploughing In The Sea: The Legacy of Bolivar - 6 de Agosto
27 Aug, 2010 | Alistair Smout
In the Zona Sopocachi of La Paz, things are peculiarly quiet. The normally chaotic traffic is calm, and pedestrians cross the road with relative ease. Shops are shuttered up, cafes are draped in red,...