Photos:  Fruzsina Gál

Our guide to the must-try specialties of the city

In La Paz, culinary wonders are never far off. Whether it is questionable street vendors offering a taste of tradition or renowned restaurants luring in crowds with the promise of an unrivalled experience, one need never go hungry or thirsty under the sea of terracotta-coloured buildings stretching from hill to hill. But to find the best of the best, trial and error is the only way. To save some time, money and the potential of food poisoning, here are some of the best, most delicious specialities of the sprawling city of La Paz.

Juices

Lady on the corner of Calle Cervantes and Avenida Ecuador (Sopocachi)

No buzzing intersection, plaza or mercado can do without a joyful arrangement of colourful fruits. Whether it is only juice, fruit salad or an assortment of whatever the current season has to offer, one never has to go too far for some refreshment in La Paz. On the corner of Calle Cervantes and Avenida Ecuador is a joyful sight – a small cart filled with oranges, smelling of summer and sunshine. There is nothing better than pure, freshly squeezed orange juice amidst the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

Mercado Lanza

To wander the maze of Mercado Lanza next to Plaza San Francisco is an experience in itself, with levels folding in on themselves and stalls selling everything and anything one can think of. But to make it even more extraordinary, one must try what the depth of this eccentric market has to offer – and what better thing to go for than a glass filled to the brim with vitamin C? Jugo de toronja, refreshingly sour, is something everyone must try.

In La Paz, culinary wonders are never far off.

Antigua Miami Café

Hidden in the tourist centre of Calle Murillo is Antigua Miami, a quirky café offering the best coffees and seasonal juices. The interior design paired with the chilled atmosphere of the place is reminiscent of artistic cities with their secret spots – it is a re-imagination of a more modern, younger Bolivia. The  juices complement the aesthetic – refreshing, the same old thing, but somehow new. The surroundings are merely the icing on the cake.

Sandwich de Palta

Mercado Obrajes

In other countries, avocado on toast is associated with excess money spent on Sunday brunches by young adults who cannot afford any of it. In Bolivia, sandwich de palta is not only a usual meal, but the go-to delicacy both of the streets and of the fanciest cafés. Mercado Obrajes might be the former, but no other place can compete with the perfect balance of flavours of this small eccentric cubby hole. Complete with apanado, vegetables, artisanal cheese and just the right amount of salt, this sandwich de palta is undoubtedly number one on the list. While they say always to choose quality over quantity, it is safe to say that Mercado Obrajes satisfies both. It will leave you wanting more.

Café Typica

To think of San Miguel is to think of the endless amounts of cosy cafés paired with an abundance of little shops far from the honking of the rest of Zona Sur. Amidst this setting, Café Typica is the perfect getaway – hidden and vine-covered, it offers escape from the noise of the city. Its sandwich de palta, consisting of, of course, avocado, the most incredible grilled cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, is just all the more reason to spend a sunshine-filled afternoon under the shade of umbrellas outside.

Who says one has to stick with the expected, even when the traditional is involved?

MagicK

Who says one has to stick with the expected, even when the traditional is involved? A magical place for both tourists and Bolivians, MagicK offers a great sandwich de palta, reimagined to suit the ever-evolving image of this beautiful city. The combination of avocado, green tomatoes and sunflower seeds creates a sensation that lingers long after the iron gates have closed for the night. To make the experience even better, sprinkle some locoto oil on top, and thus a truly Bolivian avocado sandwich is complete.

Singani cocktails

MagicK

Singani is the heart, life and soul of Bolivia. If a restaurant does not have at least one singani-based cocktail, then it is probably not in Bolivia. MagicK does best what the people love best – chuflay. Mixed either with ginger ale or Sprite, this all-time classic brings home the flavour of its base in the most refreshing, and often overly alcoholic way. Because if there is one thing Bolivians like more than a chuflay, it is a strong chuflay.  

Gustu

Denying the genius behind Gustu would be like denying the significance of football in Bolivia – untrue and pointless. Following along the lines of the ‘zero kilometre’ sentiment, it is only fitting that Gustu would have singani-based cocktails, the best of which is the chancaca. Consisting of a charming mixture of singani macerado, licor de naranja and chancaca (a type of raw sugar, for which the drink is named), this cocktail brings all Bolivian flavours together – the strong, the sweet, the sour. Nothing better to sip on while trying to sneak in a look at the famous local at the table opposite.

Diesel

Amidst the industrial-metal interior design of Diesel lies the key to an unforgettable night – the younger sibling of the chancaca called the yungueño. Although the recipe seems unremarkable – singani and orange juice, sometimes with a dash of sugar syrup – the combination of sweet and strong brings out the best in both. However, one must watch out, as drinking a yungueño is like drinking moscato – the realisation of its strength only hits when it is already too late. But what makes a good cocktail a good cocktail, if not the abundance of lost memories that follow?

Photo: Fruzsina Gál

Redefining the social boundaries of an artform

To think of ballet is to think of a well-constructed image of a tall, slender, fair-toned dancer in front of an elegant, rich, fair-toned audience. The art of pirouettes and tutus has always retained an elitist, if not racially discriminative, tone throughout history and around the world. Its origins in Europe have given it a sense of exclusivity that has not allowed much room for progress. But here in La Paz, once the curtains open and the applause dies a contrasting sight becomes visible – a short, dark-skinned Bolivian, standing out amongst the expected.

Ballet schools in Bolivia are changing ever so slowly. The transformation might be gradual and singular to a small number of groups, such as Ballet de Bolivia (BDB), but the initiative reflects an overarching change in the country towards a more inclusive interpretation of this particular dance style.

Jimmy Calla Montoya, Director of BDB, emphasises the importance of Bolivian identity not only as an essential part of his ballet, but also as the core of his institution. He has danced for the Ballet Folklórico Nacional de Bolivia and has had his own ballet school for six years now. Having travelled around the Bolivian countryside and learned first-hand about indigenous dances, Calla believes the ballet scene is slowly becoming more inclusive – although it hasn’t been easy. Originally, classical ballet in Bolivia was limited to people who had money and descended from Spaniards and criollos. As one of the first few non-white Bolivian dancers, Calla remembers being called one of the ‘dark ones’ at the start of his career.

‘Classical ballet is European and the physical prototype is of a European, not a native South American,’ he explains. ‘The most shocking in my case was that I was brown, and in 1997 this problem was a lot more prominent. The issue of discrimination also transpired in my transfer to traditional ballet. When I applied [to Ballet Folklórico Nacional] they objected to my features. At the time, dancers wanting to represent Bolivia in European shows still had to have light skin and light eyes.’

Ballet in Bolivia is becoming ever more inclusive, if only in small measures.

But as Calla says, ballet in Bolivia is becoming ever more inclusive, if only in small measures. On a national level, Ballet Folklórico Nacional now accepts all dancers, which is a sign of progress. At BDB, Calla recruits artists who have a body for ballet, independently of their skin tone, and who can learn the skills that he is looking for.

One of Calla’s objectives in founding BDB was to give the opportunity to all Bolivians, regardless of their skin colour and stature, to dance and to learn about ballet. The other important motivation was to reclaim a national heritage that he felt was being lost. According to Calla, when transposed to the urban, more international context of Bolivian cities, traditional dances have been stylised to a point that they have lost their essence. ‘A lot of the traditional symbolism has been lost,’ he explains. BDB is his attempt to preserve the soul and spirit of Bolivia. He hopes to showcase Bolivian culture to the rest of the world by intertwining the technique of classical ballet and the symbolism of indigenous dances. ‘There are a lot of codes from our existing cultures that we don’t know about,’ Calla says. ‘The indigenous, the original – almost no one knows about it.’

With such matters at the forefront, what results is folkloric ballet that conveys a concrete sense of Bolivian identity. During the first five years of Calla’s school, BDB only performed outside of Bolivia as a strategy. The traditional garments and clothes came from indigenous towns, but the ballet itself was created for a foreign audience. They performed in Chile, Paraguay, Argentina, Brazil, and have received invitations to perform in Europe too. This year, however, Calla has decided to bring the dance back to its roots for the first time. The school performed this year at Casa de las Culturas, in La Paz, to represent the legend of the Loco Paya-Paya, a forbidden dance from the Yungas that is performed between midnight and 5am. For Calla, it is essential that his dancers do research and understand the concept behind every dance creation. He believes it’s what separates BDB from the rest of ballet organisations.

‘In La Paz there are a lot of groups that call themselves “ballet”,’ Calla says, ‘and whose directors have never seen or studied the art. My ballet is the opposite, full of morenos to represent the varied fabric of our culture. My goal is for this ballet to become the reference, interwoven with the native. I want people to know what we are wearing, what it represents, what it means.’ In this sense, BDB is a counteroffer to existing groups that Calla believes invent indigenous dances and erase Bolivian culture instead of cultivating it. His current school consists of 35 people, all of whom have to learn about the origin of a dances before they can perform it.

: ‘I want people to know what we are wearing, what it represents, what it means.’

—Jimmy Calla Montoya, Director of Ballet de Bolivia

Calla hardly has to think to sum up BDB in three words. ‘It’s easy,’ he says, ‘Indigenous. Disciplined. Passionate. Blending classical and traditional ballet fulfils me. I want it to fulfil others as well.’

Photo: Alexandra Meleán

Popular puts a modern spin on traditional Bolivian food.

On 17 November, in a sun-trapped square in which cocktails flowed and canapés were distributed around the room, a new restaurant opened near Plaza San Francisco.

Co-founders Alexandra Meleán, Juan Pablo Reyes and Diego Rodas opened the doors of Popular to friends, family and journalists to show what they had to offer. The night was a great way to celebrate the exhaustive efforts they made to create this masterpiece over the previous month. Featured appetisers for the opening included three typical Bolivian dishes: tucumanas (mini empanadas, stuffed with chicken stew and peanut sauce) presented on rocks with charred wood, papa rellena (stuffed smoked potato with beef-cheek stew) and escabeche de cerdo (rolled pork with pickled vegetables) in quirky enamel teacups.

The old colonial-style house on Calle Murillo in which Popular is situated is a fitting location for the new restaurant, which has been receiving praise since opening just over a month ago – not only from locals, but also tourists and travelers seeking authentic Bolivian cuisine. ‘It seems La Paz locals are excited about contemporary Bolivian food in a casual environment,’ says co-owner Meleán. ‘Tourists and travelers are both surprised and satisfied by our proposal, too. We are pleased with the response.’

Meleán says that the name, Popular, was chosen in the hope of ‘reflecting the simplicity of our culinary concept: good, everyday Bolivian food inspired by the street markets, like Mercado Rodríguez, nearby.’

The partners aimed to create an excellent prix-fixe lunch menu that won’t break the bank.

With a menu that changes weekly, a recent prix-fixe lunch included anticucho or crema de lentejas as an entrada. At our table of four, the cow’s heart was popular. The dish came presented on a smooth stone, the sliced meat skewered on two charred twigs. The carne was tender and tasty, accompanied by the traditional maní dipping sauce. Then the main course: a choice of pollo frito or ispi. The ispi, a small fish native to Lake Titicaca, was partnered with a puré de mote, dried beetroot and other vegetable crisps. The pollo frito was served with a selection of greens, avocado, baby tomatoes and boiled potatoes. Dessert consisted of ensalada de sandía or helado de canela.

Presentation was on point, and so were the flavours in both dessert dishes. The ice cream came with a tawa tawa (a type of deep-fried Bolivian pastry) and a honey dipping sauce. Every item complemented the others. The fruit salad featured roasted watermelon presented in a bamboo bowl, with lemon syrup and caramel escorting the fruit. Fresh-squeezed juice and a selection of bread and pickled vegetables were provided with the meal – in addition to, as the menu states, an extra dose of amor.

The passion that’s evident in the preparation and presentation of Popular’s food is also what brought together the three co-owners. They all met when working together at the Atix Hotel’s Ona Restaurant in Zona Sur. ‘Juan and Diego were hired to run the kitchen,’ explains Meleán. ‘As the in-house photographer, I photographed all of the dishes they initially proposed for the culinary concept of the restaurant. We all share a love for beautifully plated and delicious Bolivian food. So, naturally, we became friends.’ This care and attention for details shows through in the way food is presented in the restaurant, with rustic stones, bamboo bowls and quirky enamel dishes. The team pays explicit attention to detail.

Opening Popular has been a learning experience for the partners. Although their background aided them during the development process, finding the right market and approach was tricky. And even if the restaurant runs exceptionally smoothly now, Meleán says that the project originally came together on the fly. ‘We have had to improvise a little,’ she says. ‘As owners, we are all equally invested in the project. I, for one, am currently learning how to wait tables.’ But the most challenging complication in opening the restaurant, Meleán says, was remodeling the space and ‘creating a modern yet laid-back environment.’

Modest pricing is another factor the partners had to consider, in addition to the quality and presentation of the dishes. They aimed to create a excellent prix-fixe lunch menu that won’t break the bank. And, for Bs 45, they provide an unforgettable experience. Soon, Popular will also be open in the evenings, featuring more dishes along with alcohol pairings at a slightly higher price.

Meleán stresses the importance of Bolivian culture and tradition to the restaurant: ‘Our menu features local Bolivian food, and we prefer to work with seasonal products, which are often in limited supply.’ Nevertheless, limited supply can benefit the finished product. ‘Changing our prix-fixe lunch menu every week is an exercise in creativity and resourcefulness,’ Meleán says. It’s true: the ever-changing menu frequently includes traditional Bolivian dishes with an exciting modern twist.

‘There is no limit to what we can do.’
—Alexandra Meleán, Co-Owner of Popular Cocina Boliviana

The restaurant is also a creative space which is used to collaborate and share ideas with chefs from other kitchens. On 15 December, Hay Pan’s Sukko Stach will be visiting Popular to cook some of his favourite dishes.

And there’s already talk of expansion. Although this the partners’ first project together, they want to expand on their concept of Bolivian cuisine. ‘There is no limit to what we can do,’ says Meleán.