PHOTO: NICK SOMERS

Behind a nameless, unimposing, wooden door on avenida Ecuador is the shabby and famous restaurant, ‘El Chino Renegón’. The name of the place is unofficial, gifted to this delicious Taiwanese kitchen due to the comical level of brusque service provided by the front of house. No one knows why ‘el chino’ is grumpy and terse all of the time. It could be because his wife is busy cooking for customers and cannot give him the time of day. Maybe it’s because his clients insist on calling him chino despite the copious copies of ‘Taiwán Hoy’ on display in his establishment.