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When I hear the word ‘’gringo’’, the first thing I think of is Mexico. However the word is used throughout spanish-speaking countries. In Spain, for example, it was first used to describe foreigners in Malaga and Madrid who spoke Spanish with an accent. Popular local belief states that the term was made offensive in Mexico, when the Mexicans called for the American army to leave their country. The US army wore green uniforms, and so the term ‘Green-Go!’ came about. Today in Bolivia, ‘gringo’ remains an offensive term, but what counts as a gringo? ‘’Gringo’’ is the stereotypical description of a person from America or Europe, though foreigners, white people, and blondes in general can also qualify as being gringos. The stereotypical gringo is Nordic in appearance : tall, white (or sunburnt), with blonde hair and blue eyes. Besides the striking differences in appearance between gringos and Bolivians, one can also spot them by their apparel - which includes but isn’t limited to; llama print/alpaca clothing, flip flops, khaki shorts, hiking boots, and their trusty camera hanging from their body.
But how do people feel about them?
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Small things This includes the way in
which Attitude The local people find that gringos are cold and unfriendly towards them, and that they care nothing about Bolivia or its culture. This enforces the local rumour that gringos enjoy imposing themselves on others and interfering in business that isn’t their own. Arrogance Many people find that gringos carry an air of superiority. That is, they appear presumptuous, sometimes snobbish, because of the differences in levels of development between their countries and Bolivia. They hold others in contempt Carrying on from the second point, the attitude carried by the gringos makes the locals feel like they are constantly being looked down on and belittled. Drugs One of the biggest problems associated with gringos is their open relationship with drugs. The ‘Route 36’ club is world famous for its trafficking of cocaine, which gets served tableside by smartly dressed waiters and attracts many tourists from Europe and America. |
They’re friendly! Many find that gringos are cheery, and very easy to get along with. They are described as easygoing social beings with open minds and good manners (especially towards the ladies) Attitude Gringos carry a ‘make every day count’ attitude that spreads to the people around them. These gringos make us want to climb Illimani, or take on The Worlds Most Dangerous Vindaloo. They’re exotic People in every country find foreigners exotic, Bolivia is no exception to the rule. With notably different features, accents, fashion sense, and customs from the locals, gringos are loved for being different Travel stories Lots of gringos pass through Bolivia as backpackers and drifters, making them full of exciting and thrilling stories, like that time they were sent straight to the loo after eating the wrong street food, or when they were chased from a cathedral for taking pictures inside... They contribute to the economy By eating from local restaurants, going to museums, and engaging in the activities a country has to offer, gringos put money into a country’s economy – a major source of income for some places.. |
For the record, the information for this article was taken from a survey completed by a group of 50 university students, whose answers range from approving of gringos, to an almost xenophobic view on foreigners in general. This is what people like about gringos.
THE MOST QUIRKY: La Costilla de Adán - Pasaje Aspiazu 743 Discreet and mysterious, La Costilla is a hidden gem. The owner opened the twostory place in what was his home, and has crammed it full of curios and artifacts collected over the years. Words don’t do it justice - visit to find out more!
THE MOST INDUSTRIAL: Diesel - Av 20 de Octubre 2271 A grunge-chic bar / restaurant with fascinating post-apocalyptic décor: Train tracks leading up to the entrance, propeller dangling from the ceiling, car engines on the walls and sci-fi toilets. One would expect hard metal music to fit the theme, but a surprisingly chilled blues and acoustic guitar soundtrack accompanies delicious cocktails and piqueos.
THE MOST ELECTRIC: Traffic - Av Arce 2549 Popular bar-cum restaurant cum-club. Electro, house and hip-hop keep the dancefloor heaving till the wee hours!
THE MOST JAZZY: Thelonious - Av 20 de Octubre 2172 With an intimate atmosphere, Thelonious Jazz Bar hosts live jazz and Brazilian music Wednesday - Saturday.
THE MOST GRINGO: MONGO’S : Hermanos Manchego 2444 As the huge Australian flag behind the bar suggests, this La Paz hotspot is packed with grinding gringo backpackers on most nights. It transforms, however, on Tuesday nights when a live Salsa band attracts a much more local crowd
THE MOST LATINO: Mama Diablo - Av 6 de Agosto Salsa central! Live Salsa and Cumbia bands every weekend ensure an energetic night of dancing, if you want to escape the gringo crowd...
THE MOST EXPLOSIVE: The Star of India - Calle Cochabamba 170 Well-renowned among backpackers and locals as the ultimate place to test your taste buds: the Vindaloo Challenge (a 35-chili-strong curry, seemingly infinite, but must be finished) is truly horrific and we’re not entirely sure the T-shirt reward is worth the consequences... We won´t go into details!
THE MOST ALTERNATIVE: TTkos - Calle México 1551 This cool cave-style basement club is the perfect place to boogie with the locals! Meditation Mondays, Reggae Tuesdays, Other Reality Wednesdays, World Party Thursdays, Big Party Fridays and Saturdays... Spoilt for choice!
THE MOST AUTHENTIC: Peña Marka Tambo - Calle Jaén 710 Immersion in a beautiful Bolivian bubble of dance, song and music. Exuberant show of traditional dancing (including characters from Bolivian legend such as the Diablo) as well as hilarious stand-up comedy with lovingly satirical comments on Paceño life, and a quartet of musicians from Tarija playing instruments such as the charango.
THE MOST BOHEMIAN: Etno Café- Calle Jaén A strong smell of incense sets the scene for this cosy hippie hide-out with original details like tables painted to look like Jupiter! Regular cultural events such as film showings, charango concerts and even literature clubs attract Paceño art students. Moreover, it’s the only place in La Paz that serves Ajenjo (a drink equally as hallucinogenic as Absinth)!
There’s no doubt that cinema is a crucial way of immersing yourself into the culture of a country, especially to discover the mentality of its people, history, humour, and a whole way of thinking are focused through the director’s eye. ¿Quien mato a la llamita blanca? (Who killed the little white llama, 2006), Rodrigo Bellott’s second film, is a wild satire on Bolivian corruption, a variation on both the buddy flick and the road movie that takes two inept drug-runners on a trip from El Alto to Santa Cruz.
1.
Because this movie gives a sharply exposed overall view of Bolivia that lampoons many clichés. It will show you the little known aspects of this country with perceptiveness and humour.
2.
The mere sight of Guery Sandoval (the Bolivian actor who plays the narrator), sitting on his little bike and ironically revealing the plot development is a pure joy.
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Despite being a comedy there is a deeper message that pertinently denounces political scandal, racism, poverty and drug trafficking, and the question raised by the title itself : how can the media make such a big deal over a llama’s death and ignore these bigger issues?
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Because it contains amazing photography of Bolivian landscapes. Aesthetically very pleasing.
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Because Bellott is excusing no one, everyone gets laughed at: from the French NGO worker who keeps repeating that “coca is not cocaine” to the Hare Krishna disciples debating whether to eat chicken or not...we are delighted at this two fingers up to political correctness.
6.
In this movie you hear a lot of Bolivian slang, which is useful to add to your Spanish vocabulary - like ch’api, for example. And there are little pseudo-scientific captions to explain!
7.
Because Jacinto and Domitila, los Tortolitos (the Lovebirds) are like a wacky Bolivian version of Bonnie and Clyde.
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The incongruous mix of Bolivian folk music and heavy metal suits the overall irreverence of the movie perfectly.
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After seeing it, this is the film you’ll want to show anyone who is keen to understand more about the littleknown sides of Bolivia.
10.
It makes you laugh and makes you think.
