
In 2014, the city of La Paz was named one of the Seven New Urban Wonders of the World by the New7Wonders Foundation. This global distinction came after a long and hard-fought campaign spearheaded by the city government and local citizens. It remains a badge of honour for us, as well as a central theme of the city’s efforts to bolster tourism. This award is both a boon to, and result of, La Paz’s emergence onto the world stage.
The attention given to the city is not unwarranted. The teleférico system has revolutionised transport here, for citizens and guests alike. The city’s gastronomic reputation is gaining renown as new restaurants, cafés and bars are focusing on local ingredients to create a distinct modern cuisine. The arts in this city are gaining more and more support as musicians and theatres receive more recognition abroad and more support locally, and the walls of the city come to life with bright murals by local artists. The list of ways in which La Paz is evolving, both culturally and economically, sometimes seems endless.
Such recognition as bestowed on La Paz in the past few years does not come without work. While a city may grow and improve organically in some ways, gaining attention from abroad does take planning and coordination. A lot of thought has gone into how La Paz presents itself, and what this presentation means. In some ways, its identity is carefully crafted, honed (albeit in a decentralised way) to put the city’s best face forward. Much like a person carefully shaping their identity through edited posts and rehearsed smiles on social media, performance is the name of the game, as the city creates a more modern and trendy image and shares it with the world.
We want to look at performance as a way to understand the things happening around us. In La Paz, as anywhere, people are performing every day: in the street, on stages, in work meetings, at social functions. The clothes we wear, the words we use, the actions we take, all put forward representations of who we are, or at least who we want to be. In this issue of Bolivian Express, we take a look at the people, organisations, and places around us, and explore the relationships between who or what they are, how they present themselves, and how we see and interpret them. By looking at Bolivia in this way, we refuse to take things at face value and commit to digging deeper to make sense of why things are shown as they are.
We look at traditional performers, and what they put into their craft, from standup comedians to Bolivian K-pop fanatics. We visit the Conservatorio Plurinacional de Música to review the state of opera and classical music in Bolivia, and spend an afternoon with Juan Carlos Aduviri, a renown Bolivian actor honing his vision for a cinematic style that is purely alteño. And we meet a group of homeless young people living on the street and changing their lives through hip-hop. We also learn about the performance of work, and hear from Bolivian entrepreneurs to understand how they use their experiences to present innovative ideas to local and international marketplaces. And a young bartender talks about his goals for reinventing La Paz’s cocktail scene, using taste, smell (palo santo! tobacco!) and sight to create inspired and stunning drinks.
La Paz’s ascent onto the international stage is undeniable. Plenty of international attention has been paid to this city as a cultural, culinary, and general tourist destination. Hopefully this issue of Bolivian Express helps spread the word on what La Paz and the rest of Bolivia has to offer, and to encourage everyone to stop and watch the show that is life here. It is one not to be missed.
Photos: William Wroblewski
Stay Hungry. . . Stay Foolish
At first glance, the entrepreneurship scene in La Paz seems quiet. Meetup.com and Techstars groups barely meet, and a startup incubator is hard to find. The community almost seems underground. However, Jorge Velasco, Director of Innova Bolivia, a platform for connecting university startups and venture capitalists, sees things differently: ‘Bolivia is one of the most enterprising populations in the world, according to the GEM Index by Babson College.’ Indeed, according to the index, Bolivia ranks sixth in a survey of 70 countries with its rate of early-stage entrepreneurial activity.
This level of entrepreneurship is evident when speaking with Camilo Eid, the COO of Ultracasas.com, an online real estate sales network, and Claudia Mendez of Orígenes Bolivia, a seller and exporter of handmade clothing and crafts. They offer insight into what makes entrepreneurs in Bolivia tick, showing what drives business owners, what impact they make and the secret to their success.
Camilo Eid, Ultracasas.com
Camilo Eid co-founded Ultracasas.com, the largest property search engine and mortgage channel in Bolivia and, according to Camilo, the first tech startup in Bolivia financed with external venture capital. Camilo’s journey as an entrepreneur is partially what you’d expect. As a teen, he had an interest in technology, and he studied computer science at Tecnológico de Monterrey in Mexico. He has what he calls ‘a great founding team’ – his brother, Esteban (who also studied computer science), and Carlos A. Jordan, who was admitted to Stanford University.
Ultracasas has had what Camilo calls ‘hypergrowth’, from 800 housing listings in March 2016 to 8100 in March 2017, and within two years more than 40,000 registered users. But what’s more impressive is how Camilo’s team analyses the numbers. They’re obsessed with ‘key performance indicators’ such as user statistics and sources of online traffic. Camilo knows exactly how much it costs to get each customer to the website. ‘Good marketing, SEO, and stats,’ he says, have been important to understand the markets. This core knowledge has helped raise $600,000 to fuel growth, because, Camilo says, the ‘investors knew we would spend the money well’.
Entrepreneurs often talk of luck, but Camilo says Ultracasas.com had no lucky breaks. ‘Sometimes things go wrong, you don’t get a contract. But others work out,’ he says. He also believes that travelling in countries from Rwanda to Haiti made him realise how lucky he is; people often complain about the lack of infrastructure and amenities in Bolivia, but there is much more here than in other developing countries.
When asked about key challenges, Camilo mentions ‘access to funding, by far the biggest problem, and then living with bureaucracy... This is an extremely complicated country for doing business.’ He hopes that eventually the system and culture will change, but in the meantime, he says, ‘we work very hard and long hours’.
Camilo offers sound advice for those looking to start their own endeavours: ‘Take the first step,’ he says. ‘Sometimes it’s better not to think too much: if you do all the calculations you’ll think it’s not going to work, it’s too difficult, there’s competition.’ Camilo says he enjoys competing with traditional businesses with his technology-driven enterprise, but he’s more concerned with making a positive impact. ‘I want a business that leaves value to society,’ he says.
Claudia Mendez, Orígenes Bolivia
Claudia Mendez’s Orígenes Bolivia has been in operation since 2003, selling clothing and crafts, but Claudia is not a typical entrepreneur. She describes herself as ‘an economist by training, but an entrepreneur by chance’. Nonetheless, she has grown her business to current sales between US$100,000 and US$1 million yearly, with 50 percent of those sales in Bolivia. She studied economics at the University of Texas, Austin, and started on a PhD before she walked away with a master’s degree.
Claudia says she works from ‘wherever home is’, collaborating with 45 Bolivian artisans at any given time. Chiefly working with mothers like herself, Claudia says that ‘Anybody can do fashion – but I also want to follow my passion, to economically empower women.’
Orígenes Bolivia has survived over the years because Claudia is innovative. Three years after starting her business, the company had big accounts in New York. But in 2008 the global economy crashed. Claudia says that ‘90 percent of my market collapsed, so I refocused the business and closed the airport shop in Santa Cruz.’ She continues: ‘By then, I felt, “What’s the point?” I decided that I’m closing in October as I still have some orders from September.’
But Claudia got a lucky break when a Danish company reached out in need of a Bolivian producer. The business grew, and Orígenes Bolivia eventually opened a shop in the El Alto airport.
Claudia has entrepreneurship and creativity in her genes. Her father is a music equipment wholesaler who also plays the piano. He convinced Claudia to become her own boss. When asked about the challenges she’s faced as an entrepreneur, Claudia says that ‘the market is not advanced enough to be online, as there are no good delivery methods, and the government is not helping textiles enough compared to countries like Chile, Peru and Colombia’. Nevertheless, she points out, ‘There are always new customers; we have to show them we’re the best option.’
Business-minded people often want a blueprint, a secret to create a large successful endeavor – the secret that will help 300x your results, instantly! – but Camilo’s and Claudia’s businesses, one new and one established, show that such secrets hardly exist. Both founders share similarities: Camilo has a great founding team, and Claudia had support from her father. Add to that a lot of hard work, and each is following their passion, in the high-tech field or with time-honoured artisanal crafts.
It’s also clear ‘luck’ may occur, but cannot be relied on: hard work is required. Jorge Velasco reiterates this, saying about his projects, ‘We knew groups with great ideas, with great talent, but after one month they disappeared into thin air.’
Apple founder Steve Jobs had great advice for entrepreneurs: ‘Stay hungry. . . stay foolish.’ Camilo and Claudia encapsulate this mentality, in starting their respective businesses, in trying new methods of engaging with customers and in operating within Bolivia’s unique entrepreneurship environment.
A swipe to the right, a super-like, a winking emoji: these are the sonnets and perfumed love letters of a techno-literate generation. There is no environment with a higher pressure to perform, where snap decisions can trigger a romance of dubious origins but eternal swooning.
After hours of furious swiping, our thumbs were afflicted with suspected repetitive strain injuries and our souls were irreparably damaged. As we plunged into the deep end of La Paz’s Tinder pool, we were introduced to a dizzying spectrum of characters, from the overly self-deprecating to the nauseatingly self-confident. Here is a snapshot of the pinnacle of said spectrum, a pseudo-guide so that you might find love and/or lodging in the Bolivian dating capital.
The Life Coach
Name/Age: Esperanza, 30 |
|
Bio: 365 new opportunities |
Anthem: ‘I Want To Break Free’, Queen |
The Lost Gringa
Name/Age: Hannah, 19 |
Bio: Travelling in South America Looking for a tour guide, maybe something more ;) |
Anthem: ‘Wake Me Up’, Avicii |
The Emoji Overloader
Name/Age: Luz, 20 |
Bio: ?+?=? ????? |
Anthem: ‘Despacito’, Luis Fonsi |
The CV Candidate
Name/Age: Regina, 24 |
Bio: Intern at Deloitte English, Français, Español, Italiano Sports, art, music, gym Grammar nerd |
Anthem: ‘White Noise’ |
The Passive Aggressor
Name/Age: Odita, 27 |
Bio: Whatever you wrote in your description, I disagree. I’m better than you, and you know it. If we meet and you don’t look like you look in your pictures, you are buying the drinks until you do. |
Anthem: ‘Run The World (Girls)’, Beyoncé |
The Sympathy Vote
Name/Age: Erik, 28 |
Bio: I’m looking for someone real so we can support each other. I’m not very good at sex – only had two intimate relationships in my life. Need a nice girl to show me the ropes. I promise I’ll make you smile <3 |
Anthem: ‘La Llorona’, Chavela Vargas |
The Businessman
Name/Age: Davíd, 26 |
Bio: Harvard Business School Currently running my own startup. Looking for a classy girl to take to business dinners |
Anthem: ‘Power’, Kanye West |
The Gym Bro
Name/Age: Carlos, 23 |
Bio: Hey girl ;) I’m into lifting heavy ass weights and eating as much protein as I can get my hands on. Love going out with the lads but not too late – gotta be pumping iron by 6am. This masterpiece takes a lot of maintenance. 6’2 |
Anthem: ‘Sweat’, Snoop Dogg |
The Explorer
Name/Age: Ed, 22 |
Bio: Adventurer and eco-enthusiast. I hate routine. ‘Sometimes you find yourself in the middle of nowhere, and sometimes, in the middle of nowhere, you find yourself.’ |
Anthem: Link to videos of his ukelele band |
The Wide Boy
Name/Age: Diego, 25 |
Bio: |
Anthem: Anything featuring Pitbull |