You don’t even need to set your mind to it. Get into the local culinary swing and you’ll find yourself eating round the clock. And we are not just talking fitting in an extra snack before dinner. Follow these simple instructions to learn how to fit in 10 courses within a single day, Bolivian style.

Wake up before dawn, head to Perez Velasco and look for the El Alto commuters getting off the minibus. Follow their example and warm up with some hot apple and quinoa served from a small cart. This is not something you eat, exactly. It’s been pureed and comes in a disposable plastic bag, liquid enough for you to drink it through a straw.

Peckish now? Head to Mercado Rodriguez at 7 a.m. and follow up with a freshly baked llaucha, a volcanic-looking pastry subtly sprinkled with red ají, filled with white molten cheese—thick like lava and just as hot. Take a small bite and let it steam in the cold spring morning before wolfing it down.

Walk to Plaza Abaroa at around 9.30 a.m. and look for a salteña. There’s no final verdict on which one comes out top but there are plenty of contenders within a four block radius including Castor, Miriam, Chuquisaqueñas and Paceña La Salteña. Don’t eat more than one. Just sayin’—the culinary tour has only just started.

You might feel in the need for something refreshing at this stage, so walk off your previous meals by heading for Acuario on Calle Murillo. Here you will find a local interpretation of ceviche, a Peruvian delicacy comprising fish, onion, coriander, sweet potato and plenty of lemon juice.

It should be between 11 a.m. and noon by now. Head back towards the Prado and up to Calle México. You are at the global headquarters of the tucumana, the salteña’s domesticated (read:boring but equally delicious) cousin. There will be several vendors lined up, so pick the longest queue to be guaranteed the best ones. Try each of the 8 sauces on offer at least once. One sauce per bite should do the trick.

It will be time for lunch soon enough so walk to Silpich’s on Calle J.J. Perez where you will find a decent and affordable take on chairo. This classic soup combines finely chopped vegetables, giant soaked corn kernels known as mote, and chuño, all in a beef broth.

Time for some pudding. Hop on the M bus, head all the way up the General Cemetery and find the court behind the flower market which is the world’s mecca for helados de canela. Look for a bench and wait elbow-to-elbow next to a stranger while you watch the lady spinning a massive block of ice in a Victorian-looking machine. She is creating cinnamon slushies. The ying to this treat’s yang is an empanada, a dry cheese-filled pastry which perfectly balances out the experience.

It’s mid-afternoon by now and you will be excused for feeling slightly full—so here’s a challenge: walk down the wide road the M bus grumbled up earlier, and look for a lady carrying a straw basket covered by an aguayo (the name given to the multi-coloured traditional fabrics typically found on the backs of cholitas). If the basket shows the slightest indication of steaming then chances are you’ve struck on huminta, a sweet tamale-like snack made with ground corn and cheese, all wrapped in corn husks. Baked is better than boiled. Trust us on this one.

The afternoon’s puddings aren’t yet over, though we’ll give you a couple of hours to recover. Think of these snacks as a simultaneous prelude and epilogue to any important meal. Walk down to the Mercado Lanza, near where you started off, and navigate your way through the labyrinthine alleys until you find the api vendors. You’ve struck purple gold. These thick corn-based drinks can be drunk on their own or with their pale evil twin: tojorí (which looks a bit sicked up—sorry). Stick to just api if you are among the uninitiated and eat it with a pastel, a delicious fried and puffed cheese pastry powdered with caster sugar. Think of it as the blowfish of the empanada world—they are just as lethal (ie, dead good).

Stay in Mercado Lanza for your next course. There are dozens of options but we recommend going for a silpancho. A thin steak has been pounded with a stone and breaded before taking a swim in hot oil, just for your enjoyment. Think of the dish as a meat pancake with rice, potatoes, an egg, plus a small serving of finely chopped tomato and onion.

It’s now time to start drinking heavily. It’s not that we want to get you drunk per se (though we do want to get you drunk). We just want you to get a chance to experience some food enjoyed by party goers and night dwellers. Get a street burger from 6 de Agosto and Aspiazu (delicious. Free tapeworm potentially included), otherwise known as a perroguesa (or dog-burger). Don’t worry, we’re reasonably sure there’s no dog meat involved. The number of spoonfuls of hot llajwa sauce should be equivalent to the number of drinks you’ve had. Drink some more.

Lose consciousness. Repeat.

THREE TRADIOTIONAL FLAVOURS IN BOLIVIAN CUISINE

Bolivian cuisine is always an exciting affair, one that features an appetising cast of ingredients of both Spanish and native origin. Potatoes, rice, meat, and vegetables join forces to provide the sustenance, while herbs do their part by infusing the flavors Bolivian dishes are recognised for. From the bowl of llajua that graces every table setting, to the soups that prefix most meals in this country, herbs are a prevalent and essential component of the Bolivian dining experience.

While Bolivians use a wide variety of herbs in their cooking, there are a few that stand out not just for their savory contribution but also because they are among the most traditional in Bolivian cuisine. The following three herbs may seem exotic and unfamiliar at first to the foreign palate, but they are commonly used in Bolivian cooking.

Wacataya

Also known as the Amazon Black Mint, wacataya is a herb that grows in temperate grasslands in the southern regions of South America. With a rather pungent aroma, this herb’s flavor has been described as a cross between basil, tarragon, mint, and lime. Bolivians usually keep an abundant store of this herb at home as it is used in making the daily llajua that accompanies most meals.

Found in: Queso Humacha – this creamy and extremely flavorful dish is made with khati potatoes, fresh green beans, corn, milk, altiplano cheese, and comes garnished with huacataya. If you have a penchant for all things cheesy (aside from your father’s jokes), then you will most likely be unable to resist a second serving of this delectable dish.

Quirquiña
Also known as Bolivian Coriander, or killi, sophisticated palates have described this herb’s flavor as ‘somewhere between arugula, cilantro, and rue’. Quirquiña possesses a powerful aroma, which makes this herb easy to detect while shopping through leafy greens. While its flavor is considered by some to be an ‘acquired taste’, it doesn’t take long to be won over. A Quechua favorite, quirquiña has been used for millennia by this indigenous group for both culinary and medicinal purposes. 

Found in: Soltero - this unique salad is especially nice on warm days. It is comprised of fresh chopped corn, onion, tomato, queso fresco, chilies, and quirquiña, all tossed in oil and vinegar with a bit of salt. This is the type of salad that, if taken to a potluck or picnic of any sort, would be gone in the blink of an eye.

Koa
Koa is an herb that is most commonly used in a fish-based soup called wallake (which, you may know by now *wink*, also happens to be an aphrodisiac). Koa has a distinct and pleasant smell, one that could be described as minty with a hint of basil. A nice thing about Koa is that it tends to keep longer than most herbs, thus making it easy to store for a longer period of time. Because of its pleasant smell and flavor, Koa can also be used for making tea or garnishing salads.

Found in: Wallake   – for most individuals, an especially fishy soup like this one may not be a favorite. But someone must like it. Right? After all, this traditional recipe based on the spiny karachi fish has been around for many generations. Perhaps we have koa to thank for that, considering it helps mask the dish’s fishy flavor.

Bolivia´s Most Popular Aphrodisiacs

It is almost impossible to navigate the steep streets of La Paz without running into one of the many food carts that adorn its crumbly sidewalks, or squeezing past an enamored couple entwined in the throes of public passion. Food and lust, two elements that come together in some of the city’s most provocative dishes.

Aphrodisiacs, or foods that enhance sexual performance, have quite a history with the indigenous population of Bolivia. For centuries, Bolivians have used these lust-inducing concoctions to serve the needs of both taste buds and the libido. It is believed that aphrodisiacs help boost fertility, spice up relationships, and encourage overall happiness.

The real question is though, is there any truth behind the myth of aphrodisiacs? Is there a reason why I wander past colorful food carts and canoodling couples every day? And, more importantly, should I join the movement? I decided the only way to find out was to put three Bolivian dishes, known for their sensuous effects, to the test.

Caldo de Cardán

The Cala Cala restaurant in the Buenos Aires district of La Paz is famous for it’s Caldo de Cardán. This single item on the menu has made the business tick for more than 25 years. Along the restaurant’s ceiling, a sequence of adult magazine centerfolds are on display. Aside from this awkward sight, nothing else points to the sought after side effect of the famous caldo, which, simply put, is a soup that features bull’s penis (euphemistically called ‘nervio’) and testicles (‘criadillas’) as its main ingredients.

Caldo de Cardán is perhaps the most visually scandalous aphrodisiac native to Bolivia. When I am served my bowl of soup, I spy a stew of familiar ingredients: potato, beef, a chunk of chicken. The milky broth looks and smells delicious. Then, of course, my spoon stumbles upon the most nutritious and libito-licious component in the mix, a penis.

Surprised, I turn to the restaurant’s owner, Fanny Revolla, for guidance and a brief explanation. What qualifies this dish as an aphrodisiac, she informs me, is the caldo, which they prepare at four o’clock every morning, supposedly giving a boost to her patrons’ fertility. The high concentration of nutrients in the broth comes from the meat and the ‘nervio’, she explains without cracking a smile. One serving she tells me, is enough to nourish the body for an entire day.

Unfortunately, I don’t have the nerve to go for the ‘nerve’, although I do find the rest of the soup to be rather savory. For the rest of the day I’m in a surprisingly good mood. There’s a pep in my step and... could it be… a spark in my loins? I think I even feel my fertility meter go up a few notches! Yes, I believe there may be some truth in the theory behind this soup, even if that truth only exists in the realm of the placebo.

Aphrodisiac rating: 4/5

Maca

Maca, a root that grows at an elevation of about 3800 meters above sea level, is primarily cultivated in the Andean mountains of Peru and Bolivia. It is believed to have such strong aphrodisiac qualities that it could replace most libido-enhancing prescription drugs on the market. I find this claim hard to believe. However, when I inquire about its libidinous powers at a local pharmacy, the woman behind the counter excitedly declares 'It’s one of my best sellers!' Well, when you put it like that...

Maca can be consumed in a variety a ways, but it is typically dried and then crushed into a white flour, after which it can be added to food or drink. After a bit of pondering, I decide I would enjoy this lust-inducing powder best in one of my morning fruit smoothies. I toss two spoonfuls along with a fine assortment of fruit into a blender and brace myself for what I am told will be a below the belt fireworks show.

To my surprise, Maca is rather easy to drink. It adds a distinct earthy flavor to my concoction, but not to the point of overpowering it. Upon finishing my delicious mixture I lean against the counter and wait. For what exactly?, I don’t know. I feel a sense of warmth wash over me. Is this an indication of my carnal desires surfacing?, nope. It turns out the warmth is only coming from a boiling kettle. Oh well, at least I got my fruit portion for the day.

Aphrodisiac rating: 2/5

Wallake
I opt for the nearest vendor and approach a cholita who is hacking away ruthlessly at a dead fish. Yup, she seems like she knows what she’s doing. I order my soup to go, I’m not exactly keen on setting my loins on fire in a market filled with women gutting fish. As I wait for them to package my order, I inquire about the soup’s aphrodisiac qualities. The vendor throws me a hesitant glance at first, her eyes narrowed in suspicion. Then she relaxes and tells me her secret. ‘It’s the phosphorous’, she says, ‘it helps with fertility’. Hmm, phosphorous and fertility, how did I not see the connection before?

I travel across town to the fish market near the General Cemetery. Along one of the side streets I spy a cluster of stalls loudly advertising various types of soup, including the one I’m looking for. Wallake is a fish based soup that has been around for centuries. Its ancient recipe is famous for raising the heart rates of even the most lustfully void of personalities.

Once I’m in the comfort of my home, I decide I’m ready for a good dose of phosphorus. Unfortunately, my intake is limited as I am simply unable and unwilling to down an entire bowl of this soup. It’s just too fishy!

Aphrodisiac rating: 3/5