Magazine # 35
RELEASE DATE: 2014-01-01
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EDITORIAL BY AMARU VILLANUEVA RANCE
‘SUPPOSING that Truth is a woman—what then?’ are Nietzsche’s enigmatic opening words in his preface to Beyond Good and Evil. As 2013 comes to an end, living in La Paz has led us to ask ourselves, with the utmost seriousness: ‘SUPPOSING that Truth is a chicken—what then?’. We are gradually coming to the unsettling realisation that chickens and eggs are a more powerful symbol for the country and its inner workings than is commonly understood. Encroaching on territory once occupied by the Illimani, monoliths, the coca leaf and cholitas, chickens have been gradually taking over the collective consciousness, as well as the diets of locals. From the erstwhile and fallen-from-grace president Jaime Paz Zamora (otherwise known as ‘el gallo’, or ‘the rooster’), to the juggling feathered family who, dressed as chickens, have been dominating several traffic lights across the city; the extent of this avian invasion is hard to overstate. Perhaps it all started when our current president proclaimed that eating chicken causes ‘deviations’ and baldness in men. Or maybe these birds have been pecking their way into our subconscious from early childhood, through nursery rhymes and songs such as ‘Los Pollitos’ and ‘La Gallina Turuleca’. There’s no way to know for certain. All we have learned so far is that eggs are getting larger and more nutritious, people are starting to keep hens as house pets, and that rooster-shaped fireworks can be filmed at 60 frames per second to create photoessays which facetiously capture the cruelty inherent in most of our relationships with these feathered reptilian descendants. Several chickens were severely harmed during the making of this issue, though not necessarily by us (apart from the pyrotechnic rooster).
INNARDS
January 21/2014| articles

Wilmer Machaca savours some of La Paz’s most traditional market delicacies

Cuellitos (Chicken Necks)

Doña Wilma has been selling deep-fried chicken necks with potatoes for five years in Villa Pabón. This job has allowed her to maintain her family and become very popular in the area. Today she has a kiosk where she also offers other tasty snacks such as the famous salchipapas. But undoubtedly the most popular are the cuellitos which only cost Bs. 2.50.
The sale of cuellitos began when pollo al spiedo (spitroast chicken) was very expensive and the current fast-food chains didn’t exist. Faced with the impossibility of paying for a chicken portion, many people started to buy cuellitos to treat themselves. Cuellitos were sold for Bs.10 a dozen and Bs.1 each. Now this activity has mainly moved to the city’s outskirts to the traditional micro-snack, where salchipapas, hot dogs, and hamburgers are on sale. Now cuellitos have been included as one of the main products on offer.

Chicken feet and gizzard soup

Mercado Uruguay is one of the cheapest and most popular markets in La Paz. It offers a wide, and very distinctive, variety of products. In its laberynthine passageways you can find everything from live animals such as chicks, dried grains, cow and chicken innards, charque, vegetables, to cooked food—the whole food chain. Given its location between Max Paredes and Buenos Aires avenues, the diners in this market are generally street peddlers, lustrabotas, aparapitas and destitute people, who for Bs.3 can buy a plate of food such as peanut soup or chairo with innards and chicken feet. Plus their nectar refresquito (boiled fruit juice).

Fried Chicken Liver

Although there isn’t a specific place where fried chicken liver is sold, this dish is mainly consumed by families at home. It is popular especially in the department of Tarija. Its consumption is also encouraged by doctors and family members to combat anaemia, and to aid the nutrition of pregnant women. Doña Guadalupe Paco told us that she started eating chicken liver when she was 29 and expecting her third child and was diagnosed with anaemia and a high-risk pregnancy. Now, fried chicken liver is a habitual part of her family’s diet. 

The Colours of Cruelty
January 21/2014| articles

The most profound minds of all time have felt compassion for animals
Friedrich Nietzsche

As a child in the 80’s I used to walk past street fairs lined with splintering old boxes with a chirping medley of colours inside. Looking in, I could see chicks cruelly painted with a toxic paint called aniline, simply to delight buyers with the curious and exuberant colours.

Several years later I travelled the city in search of this cruel practice. I started in Mercado Uruguay, famous for selling animals. Chickens, hens, guinea pigs, and even a black rooster, stood idle and overcrowded. Yet no sign of the multi-coloured chicks.

I turned to the endless El Alto Market. After asking more than 10 caseritas, and receiving an equal number of directions, I arrived at a place where many animals awaited their similarly uncertain future. Yet no coloured chicks. 
This may be good news. Sergio Lima, who has been volunteering at Animales SOS for the past seven years, confirms that this practice no longer takes place. He tells me that the technique involved immersing the chicks in aniline dissolved in water and leaving the wet creatures to dry in a windy place. Their lifetime typically lasted no longer than 20 days. While the practice of painting them frivolously no longer seems to take place in La Paz, hapless chicks are still sold as objects, stuffed into boxes and left to fester in their excrement. They are generally bought to be used in school laboratory experiments, or simply to quell a child’s tantrum.
Ruling the Roost
January 21/2014| articles

The Mendoza-Donlan family explain what it is like to keep chickens as pets.

They were a Christmas present for our children, we bought five chicks. We were told white chickens are reared for their meat, whereas ours were egg-laying hens. 

A dog got the twins Gumble and Dinky (RIP) when they were chicks. Gumble had an afro. We gave them a good burial on the land at the bottom of the garden. We were left with three: Queen Victoria, Vanilla and Miss Money Penny. Victoria recently left us. We’re going to miss her. She was the head hen, she would boss the other two around. 

We didn’t know how to look after hens. We didn’t raise them like hens, we raised them like kittens. They would sit on our laps and we would stroke them. They are so tame; they don’t know they are hens. 
When we get back home they run to the door like dogs (or velociraptors) to come and greet us. They are curious and they love to watch television. I would come into the living room sometimes and find one perched on the sofa watching TV. Another time I walked into the bedroom to find one sitting on the bed. Now they live outside with our three dogs. They get along just fine.

When they were still quite small I took my friend out to meet the chickens in their coop. And all of a sudden I noticed the diamond out of my engagement ring had gone. You know, they are attracted to glittery things. And then what do we do? This whole debate, do we kill them? It could have been Queen Victoria or Miss Money Penny. We spent days looking for it in their poop. A friend suggested it may have ended up in their gullet. There is only one way to be sure, he said. But at that point we made a big life decision to not kill them—even if they have swallowed a diamond.