Photo: Sophia Howe

For the past year Oscar Herrera has been running an original stand, called ZAFAR, along with his partner Miguel Sanchez Gomez. They sell the most eccentric designs and colourful patterns that stand out from the overabundance of Alpaca jumpers and aztec rucksacks.

Squeezed next to a lady selling silver on Calle Sagarnaga; Oscar sells his own vests, denim jackets, shorts, and makeshift purses to people from all around the world, many of whom come spilling out of Cafe Luna. He calls it ‘new creativity’. Oscar’s designs are a combination of Bolivian prints and photos with modern art and retro patterns. ‘We work with good quality and diversity.’ Items here are one of a kind, which upset a friend who couldn’t quite fit into her favourite pair of shorts.

Photo: Sophia Howe

Recycling is very important to Oscar, which is evident when he takes you to his other small shop in Galería Gladys on the same street. ‘The gallery is for people to feel comfortable to try things on, and it’s a little warmer.’ Cassettes, floppy disks and old records have been transformed into distinctive purses and bags, costing only 35 Bs.

The ever-so-soft vests are completely handmade. Oscar buys the cotton himself and cuts out the designs; ‘that is why there are so many different shapes’. The shorts are created from a collection of old jeans donated by friends and family, and even his own cast-offs. Designer brands such as; Calvin Klein, Levis, Guess and American Eagle all get recycled. The cut of the shorts are very modern and fashionable, ranging from hotpants to the more high-waisted style.

A Young Man’s Dancing Journey.

Photo: Sophia Howe

‘I don’t only dance, I entertain’.

Franz Rodrigo Chavez began his career singing on the micros of La Paz ten years ago. However, this was not as successful as having his own corner near the bustling Prado. Now you can find Franz lighting up Calle Comercio with his blasting speakers and smooth moves.

Five years ago, Franz had to start dancing in the street in order to earn a reliable source of income. Although he still lives with his parents in La Paz, he wants to rely on them less and be able to support them more. This 19-year-old spirited joven dances all day, from the morning up until his speaker battery dies in the evening, earning enough bolivianos to keep himself going.

‘It seemed weird to people because I was the first time they had seen a man dancing as if he was at a party.’ Franz is not yet bored of dancing to the lively beats of cumbia, and he continues to attract a crowd. ‘Cumbia makes me happy’, he says, performing to groups such as Sin Control and Nene Malo. Christmas and other festivities prove to be the best time for busking, but on the eve of Corpus Christi, only a two-boliviano coin lies in his hat.

‘I don’t want to continue dancing in the street for very long’, Franz says. He thinks he will leave this job and in the future dedicate himself to being a radio presenter. Already Franz has worked with his friend's Internet radio station, Salta Tropical, claiming that ‘my experience on the radio has enhanced my street performance’.

Finding work experience to succeed in this career path is proving difficult, but there are institutos where Franz can learn about this occupation, and the money from street dancing will hopefully pay for the opportunity.

‘I don’t only dance, I entertain’, Franz says. As people rush by, glancing at this young man’s moves, he longs for them to drop a coin into his hat. There is no routine that he follows: ‘It’s all in the moment, without control.’

The King of Pop’s Spirit Lives On

Photo: Ivan Rodriguez Petkovic

The year 2009 was shadowed by the tragic death of Michael Jackson, but the legendary entertainer’s spirit was reborn in one of the most unlikely places: La Paz, Bolivia. Gonzalo Mamani, age 15, takes to his stage at Plaza San Francisco from Monday to Wednesday every week to re-lives MJ’s magical moves.

Gonzalo grew up listening to Jackson’s powerfully smooth tunes. ‘I like him alot—he inspires me’ is the shy young boy’s way of summing up the singer and dancer’s importance in his life. By studying Jackson’s music videos, Gonzalo learned all his signature moves—the moonwalk, the circle slide and the ‘up on the toes’. His excellent rendition of ‘Thriller’ is complemented by his black and red leather jacket, made especially for him at Mercado Illampu. He even has a sequined jacket and two stylish hats for other numbers.

Gonzalo receives some assistance from his proud mother, who helps him pack his props. His uncle has also taught him some magic tricks—’I love both magic and dancing’, Gonzalo says. Living with his mother and sister (who is not called Janet), Gonzalo examines each and every toe point and salto on the screen to perfect his next performance.

During the day, Gonzalo is just an ordinary kid, studying at school and playing football with his friends on the weekends. ‘Some friends show me new moves and we practise together’, he says of his buddies, ‘they really support me’.

Gonzalo plans to continue his studies, and then see if he wants to continue dancing. He can usually earn 80 to 100 bolivianos a day from the crowd that gathers where he dances. He can make more than this during large events and festivals. While he did not perform in the Gran Poder parade itself, he did perform nearby in Plaza San Francisco, alongside all the other sparkly and eccentric dancers of the celebration.

Even in the helter-skelter chaos of La Paz, Gonzalo has to obtain a permit to perform, which can sometimes be quite difficult. His fans, though, are grateful to see this Bolivian incarnation of Michael Jackson every Monday through Wednesday at his usual spot, dancing away to the joyful songs of the King of Pop.