The foods that one misses the most when away from home are usually the ones that we take the most from granted when we experience them. Like the anticuchos you eat, not fully sober, in the middle of the night or the little bag of nuts you grab on your way to work from a street vendor. Because of the pandemic some of us are left stranded somewhere far away from where we want to be and not knowing until when.
When times get tough there is nothing like the warmth of an api with a sweet and savoury pastel, or nothing quite as refreshing as an helado de canela or a giant slice of watermelon to go. Trying to recreate dishes ourselves helps but even if we manage to bake the softest, fluffiest and crunchiest pancitos in the world, nothing comes close to being able to share it with someone you love.
In this new world we live in we may not be able to eat outside as casually as before or hang in our favourite bars for hours with our friends. Most places have adapted and you can now order take outs and food delivered from almost anywhere. Even cocktails. In a very paradoxical way, in Bolivia, food is almost even more available now than before.
Food is comforting, food provides connection, and because here at Bolivian Express, eating and talking about food are our favourite activities we concocted another issue (our third one) entirely focused on food, gastronomy, drinks, chefs and everything edible. The issue itself may not be (yet) but it comes with recipes you can try at home.
And now for those of us who have embraced the art of cooking, baking and making cocktails at home, the possibilities are infinite. You don’t live in Bolivia (or you do but you can’t leave your house) and miss the messiness of a salteña? No problem, just bake them at home. The secret is to sweeten the dough and to use some gelatine to create the perfect juicy stew inside. Make your own choripán with chorizo, baguette bread and all the condiments you like, but don’t forget the llajua. Never forget the llajua.
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Photo by: Iván Rodríguez
Margarita
La Paz’s culinary scene has experienced a mouth-watering boom in recent years. Its ever growing prestige has earned its spot at the top, the gourmet food on offer now rivalling that of the Latin American gastronomy capitals of Lima and Buenos Aires. Restaurants like Gustu, Popular, and Ali Pacha continue to receive international praise as they champion local ingredients whilst creating gourmet, affordable high class dining for food lovers. This has certainly helped to break the stigma attached to Bolivia’s food, which is often touted as uninteresting compared to its culinary neighbours. Bolivian food is filling, comforting and full of versatility, something that chef Luis Alberto ‘Tito’ Eguino showcases in his restaurant Margarita. Located in Calacoto, La Paz, it provides a simpler, yet satisfying, alternative to the big names of his friendly competitors, adding to an already impressive and ever growing repertoire of fine dining in La Paz.
Eguino was born in Bolivia but he grew up in various countries. ‘I think this is why I have an affinity with different tastes in relation to food and varied flavours,’ he says. He spoke to his friend and now business partner Jorge (Mealla) and the idea for Margarita was planted. ‘He told me how it could be feasible. At that time he said, ‘there are no proposals for a restaurant with the characteristics of Margarita. My decision was immediate and in under a month I sorted my commitments abroad and returned to Bolivia. It took us just under a year to build from the ground up.’
Since its opening in 2014, Margarita has offered a large and varied menu to its patrons. It’s menu is an ode to fusion, consisting of piqueos, pasta, and steak, all cooked with Bolivian ingredients. It blurs the lines of conventional foreign cuisine with a blend of flavours from across the globe. Combining rustic burgers with the famous Argentinian/Uruguayan sauce, chimichurri, and the smokey provolone cheese typically used in Italian cooking, these flavours are accompanied by the sacred Bolivian papas. This simple and delectable twist on a well established classic typifies Eguino’s worldwide exposure.
Margarita is a place without fuss, where one can find comfort and a sense of community. For Eguino, ‘Food is the basis of society.’ Eguino wanted to create a place where people could connect and enjoy each other. ‘I think that one of the greatest riches of Bolivia is its people. We have created a place where you can feel the familiarity and affections of our team and our clients.’ Margarita proves that it is not only a confluence of cuisines but also foodies across La Paz, a testimony to its popularity and quality.
With the current pandemic in mind the future is uncertain. It is hard to look ahead but Eguino is positive about Bolivia’s culinary future and is convinced that what we have seen so far is only the start. ‘It is actually the beginning of a stage. We have to make the change. Our vision in the immediate future is to act responsibly and form positive results in the long-term.’ Progress is halted and it is difficult to see past the current situation at hand, as Equino puts it: ‘It has affected the public conscience.’ Despite being clouded by pandemic, he refuses to drop his focus and his goals are clear. ‘We cannot depend on exaggerated and unnecessary supply lines. This pandemic will pass and the lessons learned will be seen in the future.’
A photo collaboration by Azafrán Magazine, special thanks to Alvaro Ruiz
Exceptionally, this issue will not have a cultural agenda nor recommendations. This month is all about food and treating ourselves so here is our selection of favourite Bolivian dishes with substitutions for those who can’t find the original Bolivian ingredients.
Cuñape
Cuñape is a type of cheese bread made with yuca (tapioca) flour. It’s from the eastern part of the country and comes from the guarani word for ‘breast.’ They are traditionally made with queso fresco and are served hot. Any cheese that you like will do here. You can reheat them in the oven or in the microwave for 30 seconds. They are best enjoyed with some coffee.
Servings: 12
Ingredients
2 cups cassava / yuca starch
2 cups shredded or grated cheese
1 egg
1,5 tablespoons/20 grams butter softened
1,5 teaspoon salt (depending on the cheese you use)
5 tablespoons milk
Preparation
Preheat oven to 400F/200C and grease 2 baking sheets.
In a big bowl, add starch, cheese, egg, and butter and salt. Mix with the tip of your fingers. Add 3 tablespoons of milk and mix with your hands. (it's going to look like big crumbs)
Dump it all on a clean surface and knead the dough for 2 to 3 minutes. If it doesn't come together, add 1 tablespoon of milk at a time.
Divide the dough into 12 equal portions. Make a round ball with each portion and place them on a greased baking sheet.
Bake for 20 minutes.
Plato Paceño
Plato paceño is a traditional Bolivian dish consisting of a combination of lima beans, potatoes, corn and fried cheese. Although the dish traditionally doesn’t contain meat it has become popular to add roast beef alongside it. Eat with llajua.
Serving: One plate
Ingredients
Corn (tender corn cob)
Beans in shell
A pinch of sugar
A pinch of anise
Potatoes
Queso fresco or any cheese that can be fried
Preparation
Bring water to a boil in a large saucepan. Cook the corn and beans in the shell, over high heat, for 25 minutes.
Cook the potatoes in their skins in salted water to taste.
Cut the cheese into slices and fry it.
Serve on each plate a corn, a slice of fried cheese, a potato, beans and a tablespoon of llajua.
Pique Macho
Pique macho is a very popular dish from Cochabamba in Bolivia, made of beef cuts and fried sausages with fries, eggs, chili peppers and tomatoes. It’s best when shared with friends and family.
Servings: 4 people
Ingredients
2 lb beef loin
1 lb sausages , sliced
8 medium potatoes , cut into French fries
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 large onions, chopped
2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
8 locotos or any small red chili peppers, diced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon cumin
Frying oil
Salt
Ground black pepper
4 hard-boiled eggs
Instructions
In a pot, heat oil and add the potatoes. Fry for 8 minutes.
Drain and set aside. Keep the cooking oil.
Heat 5 tablespoons of the cooking oil in a pan and fry the sausage slices for a few minutes. Drain and set aside.
Cut the meat into small pieces and season with salt, garlic, black pepper and cumin. Mix well by hand to soak the seasoning.
Heat 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a pan and fry the locotos for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the onion, tomato and a pinch of salt. Mix well.
Add the meat and mix.
Heat oil again and fry the potatoes again for 3 minutes. Drain and season with salt immediately.
Add the reserved sausages to the meat and mix everything.
Serve with hard-boiled eggs.
Garnish with strips of raw chili, sliced raw tomatoes, mustard and mayonnaise.
Sopa de Mani
Sopa de mani is one of the most delicious and traditional soups of Bolivia. It is made with peanuts, pasta, peas and potatoes, and can be accompanied by pieces of beef or chicken but makes a filling vegetarian dish in itself.
Servings: 4 people
Ingredients
4 oz. raw peanuts
1 white onion , peeled and chopped
1 carrot , diced
3 oz. peas (fresh or frozen)
1 stalk celery , finely chopped
½ red bell pepper , diced
¼ cup vegetable oil
3 cloves garlic , chopped
6 cups beef broth (or vegetable broth)
4 potatoes , cut into large cubes
1 teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon oregano
1 small bunch flat parsley , chopped
Salt
Black pepper
Instructions
Soak the peanuts in hot water for 2 minutes so that they can be peeled easily. Drain them.
In a blender or food processor, mix the peanuts and a cup of cold water until you obtain a paste. Set aside.
In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat and sauté the garlic.
Add the onion, carrot, peas, and celery.
Sauté over high heat for 5 minutes, stirring constantly.
Add the red bell pepper and broth and sauté over medium heat for 5 minutes.
Add the blended peanuts and stir well.
Add the potatoes. Add salt, black pepper, cumin and oregano. Mix well.
Cover and cook over medium heat for 15 minutes.
Cover and cook over low heat for 15 minutes, stirring regularly.
Sprinkle with chopped parsley at time of serving.
