ISSUE #100 - SPECIAL EDITION
The Bolivian Express celebrates its 100th issue and tenth year this month. Over 300 interns have come to Bolivia to be part of the BX experience and left, we hope, with a better understanding of Bolivia and its culture. Some, actually, never left. We wrote about, among other things, chickens (Bolivians really like chicken), ice-cream vendors, chullpas (pre-Columbian tombs) and fat-sucking vampires roaming the altiplano (yes, that’s a thing); we tried to explain local trends (there are so many vegan restaurants now!) and current events (where to begin?) as clearly as possible. There are some questions we were never able to answer, though. Is it spelled Abaroa or Avaroa? Where do taxis disappear when it rains?
This couldn’t have been possible without the participation of the many interns who wrote for the magazine and gave it life. They’ve come from the United Kingdom, the United States, Australia, Belgium, France, Ireland, Indonesia, Italy, Germany and South Africa, bringing some of their culture to Bolivia and taking back with them a taste for salteñas (because salteñas are, very objectively, the best). There was romance, a cat called Kandinsky, dog bites, roadblocks, a kitchen fire, a very long bus journey to Vallegrande, a few ghosts and an inexhaustible number of stories that never made it to the magazine’s pages but are nevertheless a part of the BX experience.
Ultimately the BX was and is a human adventure. We wanted to tell stories about Bolivia but we ended up doing something better. Over the years we built a network of interns and contributors which now spreads all across the world, hopefully bringing some attention to Bolivia and all its wonderfully weird idiosyncrasies. This project started as a group of friends with an idea and it became a family with a home in Bolivia. In these uncertain times, there are few things we can be sure of, but regardless of what the future brings, the friendships and connections that have formed inside the BX house will remain, and we hope there will be many more to come with many more new stories to share. (And maybe, one day, we will tell you what happened on that trip to Vallegrande.)
To all the people who came to Bolivia to be a part of the Bolivian Express, to the photographers and illustrators, to the people who were interviewed and featured in the magazine, to our past and present team and to all our readers: thank you.
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Location: La Paz's General Cemetery
| Achachilas | Ancestral spirits and protective parent from the mountains |
| Airampo | A cactus seed that also gives an intense red color |
| Ajayu | Energy – what we sometimes call ‘soul’ – that drives us |
| Ajicería | Place where spicy food is prepared and sold |
| Ajís | Chili peppers |
| Altiplano | High Andean plateau |
| Amauta | Andean wise man |
| Azulejo | Painted tin-glazed ceramic tilework |
| Cha'lla | A blessing ceremony to Pachamama |
| Cha’makanis | Dark priest |
| Chicha | Macerated drink made of corn that is consumed in different places of the valleys and the highlands of Bolivia |
| China supay | Female devils from a traditional Andean dance |
| Choripan | Chorizo sandwich |
| Collpa | Handmade shampoo |
| Copoazú | Tropical rainforest fruit related to cacao |
| Cosmovisión andina | Andean worldview |
| Cruceño | From Santa Cruz |
| Curandero | A traditional native healer |
| Diablada | Typical dance from the region of Oruro in Bolivia characterised by the mask and devil suit worn by the performers |
| El libertador | The Liberator, refers to Simon Bolivar |
| El Tío | 'Uncle' |
| El Tío de la mina | 'The Uncle', is believed in Cerro Rico, Potosí, Bolivia as the 'Lord of the Underworld'. El Tío rules over the mines, simultaneously offering protection and destruction |
| Feria 16 de Julio | Large market held every week on Thursday and Sunday in the La Ceja neighbourhood of El Alto |
| ispayas | Refers to the children of a community in Andean culture |
| jiwasa | 'We/us' in Aymara |
| Keru | A ceremonial Inca vase |
| Kharisiri | Mythical creature who is believed to attack travelers in order to steal their fat |
| Kharsuta | Victim of the kharisiri |
| La prueba de fuego | 'Trial by fire' |
| Machismo | An attitude, quality, or way of behaving that agrees with traditional ideas about men being very strong and aggressive |
| Masa madre | Sourdough starter |
| Miel de caña | A type of syrup that comes from sugarcane |
| Paceño/a | From La Paz |
| Pachamama | Mother Earth |
| Potosino/a | From Potosí |
| Sajrañas | Plant-based brush |
| Tantawawa | Sweet bread shaped and decorated in the form of a person/animal who passed. Traditionally made on the Day of the Dead in Bolivia |
| Todos santos | Day of the Dead |
| Ukamau | 'It’s like this’ in Aymara |
| Ukhu pacha | The inner world |
| Valle de la luna | Moon valley, located south of La Paz |
| Viracocha | God and the creator in pre-Inca and Inca mythology |
| Wayruro | The red and black seed of a plant (Ormosia coccinea) that grows in Latin America and is said to bring good fortune and love |
| Yatiri | Aymara medical practitioners and community healers |
Nick Somers
January - March 2015
January - June 2017
‘Nothing has had a bigger positive impact on my life than the two periods in 2015 and 2017 I spent with Bolivian Express in La Paz. Aside from the wonderful experiences and memories as well as the friends for life I made there, it allowed me to grow as a photographer. I wouldn’t stand where I do today without the work I did for and thanks to the people from Bolivian Express.’
Gabriel Deasy
February 2018
I think that the Sajama National Park is probably one of my favourite places in South America. I had a lovely time in Bolivia travelling and writing for the Bolivian Express and I hope to come back one day.
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Sophie Hogan
February - June 2017
‘I was fresh from spending six months in Brazil, so Bolivia was another culture shock altogether. While I'd wanted to write for a magazine since, well, forever, and Bolivian Express gave me the opportunity, I was slightly terrified of the idea of doing it somewhere so different from home. But even from my first week in La Paz, the mood of the people struck me more than anywhere else I'd been. It almost said, 'let's get on with life, and grab it by the horns, whatever happens.' I like to think I'd adopted that mindset.’
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Charlie Bladon
September - December 2017
‘I enjoyed two lovely stints with the Bolivian Express. First time leaving with a family to return to and second time knowing that I'd be welcome with open arms to such a warm and open country. The BX opens you up to these once in a lifetime experiences and I'm forever grateful for it. Here's to many more.’
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Alexis King
March - April 2019
‘I will never forget the people I met and the opportunities I had as an intern at Bolivian Express. It was great fun and an incredible experience, in particular being given the freedom to pursue the projects I wanted to. I have to say when I arrived, I never thought I would have the chance to interview someone like Felix Patzi, then Governor of La Paz and lesser-known presidential candidate. But this is just a small part of the brilliant work that BX does. It was clear that featuring in the magazine has a real impact on people's lives and raises awareness of different issues across Bolivia.
Thank you again to the team for making me feel so welcome and all your help. Congratulations on the 100th edition!’
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Katherina Sourine
May - July 2018
‘When I remember my time in Bolivia, the most striking memories are always the conversations I had with proud Bolivians. People were eager to tell their personal stories, history of the country, the diverse nature, the culture. I think it is a beautiful reflection of a place when its people have so much warmth to share. I also miss the choripanes.’
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Anneli Aliaga
September - December 2019
‘Bolivia has become a second home for me. The Bolivian Express programme encourages and inspires interns to pursue their interests. I’ve personally loved exploring more about Bolivian cinema and art. It’s also a brilliant opportunity to get feedback on your articles, both in terms of content and style. The internship’s flexibility also allows plenty of time for travel around this beautiful country.’
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George Fearnley
September - December 2019
‘Being an intern at Bolivian Express gives you the opportunity to get articles published and live in a vibrant country with a sense of security. Having a press pass gives you access to interesting people you wouldn’t otherwise have the chance to meet. The one on one spanish lessons organised with the institute were a personal highlight. Without language there is no culture!’
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Lauren Minion
September - December 2019
‘Writing for the Bolivian Express gave me the opportunity to really delve into Bolivian Culture during my time there. Not only was I more aware of cultural events and happenings in the country (in search of article ideas), but I also had the chance of meeting so many more Bolivian people through interviews and classes with the magazine. The internship was an unforgettable experience for sure, and I’ll remember how much I learned and my breathtaking travels forever.’
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Silvia Saccardi
September - December 2019
‘Being part of the Bolivian Express experience has been amazing. I would not have learnt nearly as much about Bolivian culture had it not been for the articles I have written. My Spanish has vastly improved due to the Spanish lessons and travelling across Bolivia. Although my time is nearly up here, it is hard to imagine going back to a place without chaotic micros, colourful markets and hills that take your breath away both because of the views and the altitude. Above all I will miss the kindness and warmth of Bolivian people.’
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Rinalda Aay
November - December 2019
‘My time with the Bolivian Express has paved the way for me to spend time in and learn about a beautiful country full of rich cultures, wonderful people and beautiful scenery. It has been a great opportunity to explore my own interests in a Bolivian context, and has allowed me to dedicate time to writing, researching, interviewing and learning Spanish. Above all else, it’s an experience that I’ll never forget.’
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Rhiannon Matthias
August - December 2019
‘I came across Bolivian Express in my final year of university thanks to a sign I saw from the corner of my eye in the language department. I’ve always dreamt of living and working in South America and interning with the magazine has been a great way to dip my toes in. It has given me such great insight into Bolivia, journalism and most importantly- myself. I definitely see myself coming back to Bolivia and feel so grateful to have come across many of the people I did.’
Photo: William Wroblewski. Production: Valeria Wilde . Model: Anna Grace.
Cover Issue #62
JOURNEYS
For most travellers who visit, Bolivia is not a place to sit still. The country offers a variety of must-see and must-do attractions that are spread out across far-reaching distances. Many backpackers here grow accustomed to the 12-hour overnight bus ride. The Salar de Uyuni, the jungle rivers outside of Rurrenabaque, the shores of Lake Titicaca, the colonial architecture of Sucre – any of the most visited destinations in Bolivia are found in all corners of its tremendous geography.
One cannot stay put in one city or location and come close to understanding what Bolivia is. To truly learn about Bolivia is to travel across it, to experience the variety of wonders it has to offer the adventurous visitor. It is in this process of travelling to other destinations that, along the way, you see the true Bolivia – the sleep-deprived bus driver; the friendly kiosk owner at the crossroads; the passenger next to you finally making the trip home after a semester at school. Sometimes the seemingly endless bus rides here feel like a blessing, given the opportunities to meet new people and to take in a variety of landscapes. For certain, these travels are central to the Bolivian experience.
In this issue of Bolivian Express, we looked at various journeys, both physical and metaphorical, to understand the variety of paths people in Bolivia have taken. We traveled by train across the altiplano, from the mining city of Oruro to the salt flats at Uyuni. We heard legends of great explorers who came to Bolivia in search of riches, and sent our writers out to find their own treasures along the Choro Trial and among La Paz’s culinary hotspots. We danced with our neighbors through the barrios of La Paz to celebrate the cultural history and tradition of Gran Poder. We explored the everyday-life journeys unique to Bolivia, from the process of becoming an adult to the taking of the streets by underrepresented corners of society desperate to have their voices heard. We even traveled outside this country to experience the culinary and cultural hotspots of other places to better understand the wonders found here.
In all our journeys taken to create this issue, we returned home with a better understanding of Bolivia, and hope to share our findings with you here. Most importantly, we understood that this is a large country, and it is important that those who come here give themselves the opportunity to see wide swaths of it, to not just stay in one place and call that Bolivia. Hopefully, this issue of Bolivian Express will be a reminder that the joy is in the traversing. The journey isn’t just arriving from Point A to Point B; it is everything in between.
Editorial Issue #62, by WILLIAM WROBLEWSKI
Read more here: http://www.bolivianexpress.org/magazines/62
