The immense Bolivian altiplano is a high plateau covering over 100,000 square kilometers between 3,000 and 4,900 meters above sea level. Its landscape varies from grassy fields to seemingly desolate vistas that recall the vast emptiness of Mars. Its climate is dry and cold; vegetation in some places can be sparse, with only shrubs, cacti and strange-looking yareta - a dry evergreen plant that hugs the ground for warmth and has a lifespan of up to 3,000 years. Temperatures range from 15°C during the day to - 25°C during the night. Compared to Bolivia's bio-diverse wetlands, the altiplano has scant vegetation and animals that live there must be of hardy stock. Most of the fauna are endemic species that are localized to specific and scattered territories which make their observation and protection even harder. These conditions impose severe limits on life-but that life is there and it is fighting for its survival.

The animals of the altiplano not only live in extremely harsh conditions, but they also have to face a vast array of dangers. Some of these dangers are relatively new, such as tourism and mineral extraction processes; others are old as humanity, such as hunting for food and fur or for ingredients for indigenous rituals and healing traditions. The habitat is also being damaged by agricultural growth from quinoa plantations and the breeding of non-native species such as cows and sheep. And increasingly, tourism has grown exponentially in the area. It not only affects the once-pristine view of the landscape (with tire tracks, waste and people), but it also has repercussions for the native plants and animals that will only increase in the coming years.

FAUNA
To understand that fragile ecosystem better, let's have a look on the most commonly known animals present. Llamas and alpacas, of course, are familiar throughout the world. However, there is a rich variety of wildlife to be found if one knows where to look. Let's start with the llama's cousin, the vicuna, a delicate and graceful creature that can be seen throughout the altiplano, most often in groups eating in the grassy plains during the day. Unlike the llama, the vicuna is untamable, and it is a protected and vulnerable species. Because its fur is finer than almost any other natural fibre and it cannot be raised in captivity, the vicuna was once almost hunted to extinction. But thanks to anti-poaching laws, the vicuna population is now recovering. Vicunas, which can be recognized by their light brown or cinnamon colored fur, are smaller than their Camelid-family cousins, which include the guanaco, the alpaca, and the llama.

The mountain viscacha is another easily spotted animal from the altiplano. An angry-looking rodent that's reminiscent of a big fat rabbit or wallaby but genetically similar to the chinchilla, the viscacha is quite common in rocky areas. It has short forelimbs, large hind legs, and a long, bushy tail. Mountain viscachas are eaten by local people, and their long and dense fur is used in clothing. Nonaggressive and gregarious, mountain viscachas spend most of the day among rocks and ledges.

Finally, the majestic flamingo: Most commonly known for living in the tropics, it can also be found in the altiplano, where it lives on lakes that freeze overnight. This colorful bird is most threatened by the increasing tourism in the area and mining in its habitat. The flamingo can be found throughout the world wherever there are salt pans, brackish waters or lagoons to exploit. Because it is dependent on bodies of water to feed and reproduce, it is not as mobile as other animals in the altiplano, which can migrate away from tourist traffic. Even if the number of flamingos remains stable, the bird's habitat can be easily disturbed by the presence and actions of tourists.

The altiplano also hosts myriad other less-known animals such as the suri, an ostrich-like land bird; The Andean fox; the Andean condor; the huallata, a type of goose; the tuco tuco, a large rodent; the giant coot, a flightless black bird; the Andean puma; and a host of different sorts of lizards. The Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina ""Eduardo Avaroa"" (REA), a nationally funded reserve in the Lipez province of the Potosi department in the southwest of Bolivia, is home to two species of fish, four species of reptiles, five types of amphibians, 23 species of mammals and 80 species of birds. Mainly dedicated to the protection of flamingos, suris and vicunas, the REA was created in 1973 to protect the vulnerable species present by regulating human visitors. The REA also educates visitors about the dangers of pollution and other human impacts to the ecosystem.

The Bolivian altiplano is such a vast region that one cannot present an exhaustive list of all its wildlife. Moreover, because of the altiplano's immensity and inaccessibility, few studies or monitoring of its animal population has been done outside of protected reservations, making it difficult to give an accurate depiction of the wildlife in the region.

ECOLOGIC IMPACT OF TOURISM
Only twenty years ago, the altiplano was mostly untouched by global tourism and industrialization. However, human impact has grown more pronounced recently with a nearly twenty fold increase in the number of visitors over the last 13 years-approximately 80,000 visitors a year now. Tourism and technology have made this formerly quiet corner of the world accessible to the masses. Now, jeeps roam through the desert and plastic bottles and bags, cans and all sorts of human waste-including diapers-disturb the wilderness and contaminate the soil and water. Moreover, visitors disturb the flamingo breeding sites when they get too close to the wild birds. According to Dr. Omar Rocha, executive director of BIOTA, an NGO dedicated to the protection of the biodiversity of Bolivia, common sense rules need to be respected, such as maintaining distance when photo-graphing the birds, not feeding them and not disturbing their eggs. 

In addition to tourism and its impact, industry can create disturbances that the animals encounter. For example, Laguna Colorado, also known as Red Lake (for the color of its algae-rich waters), is threatened by borax mining and geothermal development. The construction of hostels with no proper sanitation systems also threatens the flamingo population, along with egg harvesting by the local indigenous population.
Simple things such as eco-friendly infrastructures and well-enforced tourist paths can be implemented to regulate the flow of tourists. Awareness from visitors is essential, but Bolivian guides must also follow the basic rules to respect the flora and fauna of the altiplano and prevent the negative consequences of mass tourism. As visitors, we need to be reminded that visiting the altiplano is a privilege and that the ecosystem we are stepping on is extremely delicate. We affect the ecosystem by just being there. There is much more than the eye can see - let's not be blinded by the beauty of the sights and remember that there is life out there and that we are guests in their environment.

Trafficking

One of the biggest threats to the wildlife of Bolivia, and indeed the rest of South America, lies in the animals' economic value and the worldwide commerce of wildlife trafficking. After the markets for drugs and guns, wildlife trafficking is understood to be the third most valuable illicit commerce in the world, with an estimated value of around $10 billion per annum. Latin America is subject to widespread trafficking because of its extraordinary biodiversity. Birds are the most common contraband, with approximately 4,000 different species being traded worldwide. In Bolivia, and particularly in the cities of Santa Cruz and Cochabamba, the illegal capture and trafficking of parrots is particularly grave. The most frequently sold birds are the Blue-fronted Parrot (Amazona aestival), the Monk Parakeet (Myiopsitta monachus) and the Blue-winged (Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius). The critically endangered Blue-throated Macaw (Ara glaucogularis), a species endemic to Bolivia, also attributes its threatened status to dramatic population declines owing to illegal trapping and trade. Along with birds, many turtles, crocodiles, snakes and other reptiles are also trafficked, as well as mammals, most notably monkeys, and even some insects.

Animals ripped from their habitat suffer: they may be destined for a local zoo, or smuggled in such containers as thermoses and nylon stockings, drugged and shipped to the United States, Europe and Japan. Conservationists state that many captured wild animals perish before reaching a buyer; it is estimated that 75% of parrots taken from the wild will die from stress, disease, rough handling, asphyxiation or dehydration during capture and transit, before even getting close to potential consumers.

Deforestation

Despite the notoriety and habitually shocking nature of animal trafficking, habitat loss poses perhaps the greatest threat to species. The world's forests, swamps, plains, lakes and other natural habitats continue to disappear, an issue not uncommon in certain parts of South America, including areas of Bolivia in this ever-enduring destruction of our natural world. The hunger and driving force of human consumption leads to destruction of the environment to make way for agriculture, housing, roads, pipelines and other hallmarks of industrial development. Global forest areas have been under a continuous threat from civilization, with over 50% of the world's original forests having now disappeared. In Latin America, market forces, population pressures and infrastructural advancements continue to pry open the Amazon rainforest, one of the world's leading habitats for wildlife - home to at least 10% of the planet's know biodiversity. The biggest threat to the future of the Amazon comes from the harvest of oil and natural gas in an effort to feed the global demand for fuel. On average, the Amazon suffers a loss of 580 square miles per annum - namely in areas adjacent to urban centers, roads and rivers. 17% of the Amazon has been lost in the last 50 years, although much of this destruction has occurred in the eastern and south-eastern parts of the rainforest in Brazil, nicknamed the Arc of Deforestation. Bolivia has also seen some of its part of the Amazon disappear, and the knock-on effect from deforestation elsewhere means that many animals' natural habitats are disappearing. Gold mining, illegal logging and the overexploitation of aquatic resources also occur in the Amazon although these threats are considered minor in relation to Amazonian deforestation.

Hunting

Hunting animals without regulation is also a controversial and harmful issue that exists extensively across Latin America. Bolivian law states that indigenous populations can hunt certain animals and use natural resources for traditional reasons such ceremony, dress and decoration. The hunt for feathers and meat from the flamingos at the Poopo Lake is a very current issue, as is the on-going hunt and demand for the Andean deer. Indeed the extinction of the chinchilla seems inevitable due to the demand for its fur. Inside of protected areas such as the REA, plans are being set up to regulate these activities from the local populations and help to ensure the safety and future of endangered species.

Mining

The mining and extraction of borax in the salty lagoons in the south of Bolivia represent a potential threat to wildlife but as of yet, many animals remain unaffected by this industry. In comparison the size and scope of mining in Chile has led to the destruction of natural habitats across the country. The smelting and of copper in particular is a hazard as it releases noxious chemicals that seep into the soil.

Tourism

Tourism in Bolivia is in many areas only a potential threat. Again, looking at the southern areas of Bolivia for an example (the Salt Flats at Uyuni are one of Bolivia's most popular tourist destinations) there is no significant decrease in the population of flamingos and fauna in the touristic areas although the expanding numbers of tourists could prove problematic in the future. However, in Rurrenabaque the Anaconda population have been suffering the consequences of frequent snake hunting tours through the marsh. The insect repellents and sun creams used by tourists are toxic to them and recently around 25 to 30 anacondas in the area have been found dead every year.

Protecting Bolivian wildlife

A consequence to the business of wildlife trafficking is the necessary foundation of animal refuges dedicated to the defense and rehabilitation of both animals and the environment. In Bolivia the founding of such refuges as La Senda Verde, near Coroico in the Yungas, and Comunidad Inti Wara Yassi, which runs three sanctuaries across the country, don't only provide care for animals that have been taken out of their natural habitat but also raise awareness about the importance of life, conservation, and preservation and restoration of our biodiversity. Find out more about these refuges in our features on their work.

La Senda Verde animal refuge, located below the town of Coroico in the heart of the Amazon basin, is a safe haven for a range of wildlife. More than simply housing and feeding the monkeys, tortoises, wild cats and bears, the sanctuary gives animals who have suffered mistreated and unsettled lives another chance at happiness, where they are safeguarded with love and care by Vicky Ossio and Marcelo Levy, the sanctuary’s owners.

The animals are the primary focus of La Senda Verde, and parallel to this the refuge supports social awareness and education about the natural world. The sanctuary also operates as a privately run eco-tourism resort; a natural retreat offering relief from the stresses of modern day life. In this tranquil environment it is easy to forget that the prior hardships endured by the animals often stem from heartless human behaviour. This tough back story conceals itself behind the sanctuary's Utopian façade of harmonious cohabitation between man and beast.

Vicki and Marcelo began the project that was to become La Senda Verde in 2003 and the refuge has since developed into one of the leading gateways to explore the wilderness and wild animals of Bolivia. Vicki fell in love with the area of Yolosa and the idea of founding an eco- tourism centre that could educate citizens of La Paz and develop relations between the city and the natural world. They also planned to provide facilities and hot food for mountain biking tours on the infamous 'Death Road'. On a day that would change their lives Marcelo brought back a male Capuchin monkey to their new home after he had stopped an animal trafficker on the track which runs through the valley. The Capuchin was to be sold in a market until Marcelo convinced the man to hand over the monkey in order to take care of it in a responsible manner.

Following the arrival of Ciruelo, which means plum in English, LSV has become the new home for over 350 animals including approximately 70 monkeys of various species including Squirrel, Spider and Howler monkeys and capuchins. The monkeys in particular have suffered appallingly in the past Chaska, Anachi and Tuego - three female Capuchins, were rescued from a house in Potosi, where their owner had dressed them up in clothes and made them dance in the street for money. Another capuchin, a male named Martin, was fed copious sugary treats, causing him to lose his front incisors. As well as 40 turtles and 50 tortoises LSV also houses a margay, an ocelot, and a caiman. There are a vast number of birds including numerous parrots, guinea fowl and a toucan. Many of the animals are brought in by Animals SOS, an organization which finds animals in inappropriate and often inexcusable circumstances. The ambiance turns dejected as Vicki explains how humans frequently forget that animals have feelings and how 'awful it is that the animals have to come here'. Yet her face lights up when she describes how the animals are 'given back the opportunity to find a family and live happy lives'. The couple's consideration for the animals is also evident in the rehabilitation system they have developed. They provide appropriate living conditions for the creatures, in accordance both with their corresponding natural environments and their individual needs. LSV works by means of semi-captivity; the animals are given a certain degree of freedom with suitable nutrition - analogous to what they would obtain in their natural habitat. Semi-cap- tivity also means that for their own protection some animals, notably the monkeys, are required to bear tethers. New and naughty animals are often quarantined before being allowed to enter or re-enter designated areas.

Laws in Bolivia forbid the reinsertion of certain endangered animals back into the wild, but by living comfortably in semi-captivity these creatures can fulfill a pedagogic role. Los Monos in particular possess abundant primitive spirit, and observation of their instinctive behavior is fun and educational, a key component of the LSV experience. The refuge plays host to both school and university groups, as Vicki believes there exists a 'responsibility to educate' future generations. As human beings, she explains, it is imperative to appreciate the responsibility we owe to the Pachamama to take care of the natural world. Vicki also devised a scheme to develop awareness of wild creatures, asking that school notebooks display photos and information of an animal on their covers as opposed to depicting contemporary pop stars and TV personalities. Unfortunately her proposition was unsuccessful. Further to their personal educational aims at LSV Vicki and Marcelo are adamant that commercial zoos should be required to focus on educating visitors rather than solely concentrating on generating prof-its. Nevertheless, LSV must also ensure its financial survival. There are scarce state resources for wildlife projects in Bolivia, and in addition, the sanctuary's remote location means that founding and developing communications with potential investors is a problematic affair. The refuge must rely heavily on its eco-tourism resort for economic support.

Fortunately eco-tourism also brings dedicated volunteers, without which the inspirational work carried out at La Senda Verde could not occur. Working together to complete tasks, volunteers either rotate around the various areas of the refuge or are designated to special projects. Volunteer Joe Rodgers for example, who has returned to LSV for the third time, is tending to a baby ocelot that has recently arrived at the site. Although not normally a 'cat person', he loves spending time with the animal which shares his room, is keen to play fight, scrabbles at his shoelaces and sucks on his thumb! Another volunteer, Surya Schimana-Chillel, is taking part in a surrogacy project with a baby howler monkey named Barbus who requires 24 hour care. The volunteers love their work at the sanctuary: volunteers Adi Einav, Michelle Taylor and Ben Manning, as well as Joe, have all returned to the centre. I heard that some volunteers' parents have even visited the site and stayed to help out with the work. Volunteer Rosalie Miller, whose connection with and love for the monkeys is especially captivating (despite the fact that a male spider monkey left an unwanted surprise in her shoe!) explains how 'time disappears in this place'. Her words exemplify the serenity that LSV propagates upon its volunteers, visitors and permanent staff. La Senda Verde is a 1rue refuge, and Vicki and Marcelo's mission is to enable animals and humans to learn from each other, rediscovering the meaning of love and the value of nature.