A year and a half ago, three young Bolivian entrepreneurs launched Popular, a restaurant in the centre of La Paz, betting on Bolivian food and local products. Their gamble paid off, as it is now one of the highest-rated restaurants in the city and – pun intended – probably the most popular. In 2015, a young Bolivian coffee amateur opened the first branch of Typica, a cozy coffee shop in Zona Sur decorated with vintage Bolivian furniture that offers food and coffee roasted on site. It has since expanded to four new locations, one in La Paz’s Sopocachi neighbourhood and others in Santa Cruz, Cochabamba and Oruro – and it keeps on expanding. These success stories are only a few of the examples demonstrating the possibilities and opportunities that Bolivians can aspire to.
Bolivia is a place where anyone with vision, motivation and a small amount of capital can make it happen: a pizzeria, an art gallery, a magazine, a fashion brand or a career as an influencer. New enterprises appear every week, most of them started by young Bolivians who see an opportunity to make a living by filling a gap in the market, transforming the country little by little into something new.
The recent boom is also accompanied by a reappropriation of Bolivian culture and goods. The country is developing its own artisan industry, and one can find Bolivian whiskies, coffee, clothes, even cider. Entrepreneurs have a profound desire to show the world – and each other – what Bolivians are capable of. This may be part of a global trend to consume and produce locally sourced goods, but for Bolivians, it means something more, as this trend has only recently become possible here. For a long time, the consumption of foreign goods was a sign of luxury and success. But now there is a real pride and interest in buying Bolivian products and supporting local talent.
And there is a lot of talent in Bolivia. Alongside the rise of small businesses, the country is gaining international recognition for far more than only its stark and beautiful salt flats or controversial president. In the last decade, Bolivians have risen to the top of world racquetball competition, and all expectations are set on the upcoming Pan American Games in Lima, Peru. This year, Bolivia has its sights set on winning the gold, which would be its first since the competition’s creation in 1967. This would be a huge achievement for the country.
The successes we see today didn’t just happen instantly, though. Behind all these stories are years of paperwork, preparation, failed attempts and a lot of patience and perseverance. José Antonio Callisaya Rada, owner of the Cruzze Bar & Pizzeria, tells us how his previous attempts weren’t so successful. But now, it looks like his pizzeria is here to stay.
Maybe the current economic stability has been propitious for entrepreneurs, or maybe this generation has learned how to do it right. In any case, what’s to come is certainly exciting. A new experience is around every corner, from the new food-truck court in Sopocachi, to an intriguing art gallery on Avenida Ecuador, to the taste of new Bolivian wines. It feels like everything is achievable, and it probably is.
Download
MIKO ART GALLERY
Description: MIKO Art Gallery is an Independent Contemporary Art Movement that promotes artists at different stages of their career. Its activities go beyond art exhibitions and/or artistic tours, as it also provides artists with a shared work space where they can exchange knowledge and initiatives, learn and refine techniques and develop synergies that promote growth both individually and collectively.
Address: Pasaje Kuljis on Genaro Sanjines Street #451
Opening hours: 11:00 - 20:00
Photo: Emily Kilner
---
DESTINATION
FERIA 16 DE JULIO - EL ALTO
Description: One of the particularities of El Alto is that it houses one of the biggest markets in Latin America, the 16 de Julio market. The market comes alive on Thursdays and Sundays, there you can find almost anything, from second hand clothing and home accessories to auto parts and vintage items, the entire area is full of stalls, sellers and customers.
How to get there: The simplest way is using the cable car lines, the most recommended are the red line or the blue line.
Photo: Nick Somers
---
CULTURE
MUSEO NACIONAL DE ARTE
Description: The National Museum of Art is an important cultural centre, part of the Cultural Foundation of the Central Bank of Bolivia, that shows Bolivian art through the ages. Their mission is to promote dialogue between art, cultural heritage and society, opening spaces where messages are recognised, valued, enjoyed and reworked.
Address: Comercio Street #485
Opening hours: 9:00-12:30 and 15:00-19:00
Photo: National Museum of Art
---
RESTAURANTS
Propiedad Pública
Description: ‘Public Property’ focuses on simple, delicious Italian dishes and fantastic cocktails. The rustic appearance of the restaurant, home-made details and eye-catching portraits of people enjoying their pasta, represents their values: all are equal, all are welcome. A place of all and for all, with food and drink that feels good to the body and soul.
Address: Enrique Peñaranda Street L 29
Opening hours: 19:00 - 22:00
Photo: Propiedad Pública
---
BARS
Jallalla Cocktail Bar
Description: The first cocktail bar in the city of La Paz is located in the house of the Aymara artist Roberto Mamani Mamani, the signature cocktails made with mainly local ingredients have unique flavours and an impeccable presentation backed by stories of Bolivian culture. Jallalla’s unique atmosphere also offers tapas-style food and live music.
Address: Jaen Street #710
Opening hours: 20:00 - 2:00
Photo: Emily Kilner
---
SHOPPING
ARTEZZANO
Description: A fine tailoring company specialised in the design and production of Baby Alpaca garments. Born 14 years ago, with the idea of bringing alpaca into our lives, ARTEZZANO developed a ‘casual but elegant’ style, which to date characterises all its collections, and getting international fame.
Website: www.artezzano.com
Contact: +591 76766661
Photo: Artezzano
Photos: Emily Kilner
The sport continues its rise in popularity as ambitious Bolivian athletes aspire to bring home the gold this summer at the Pan American Games
I am out of breath just watching. As the game intensifies, the shouts become louder, the challenges to the umpire become fiercer, and the players more frequently put their bodies on the line to win each point. A true battle is unfolding in front of me, and I instantly feel obliged to support the players I have met just ten minutes beforehand. I watch the intensity evolve from a bench safely behind glass, barely able to track the swiftly moving ball. This is only the doubles semifinal of the La Paz Men’s Regional Racquetball Championship, yet it feels like a fight for Olympic gold.
Raquetbol, as it is commonly known in English, is extremely popular in Bolivia, having grown in recent years to the country’s second most popular sport, and providing fierce local competition alongside international recognition. In fact, it’s grown so much that Bolivia is looking to win its first gold medal in the sport this summer at the Pan American Games, taking place in Lima, Peru, from 26 July to 11 August.
After he catches his breath (much more quickly than I expected!), I am able to speak with Germán Rojas Vargas, a paceño player whom I’d been following during the match. His Captain America top, snazzy protective eyewear, knee pads and fluorescent right-hand glove tell me that Rojas meant business. ‘Bolivia has always stood out,’ he says before his singles match. ‘We are very talented and are achieving a lot.’ As he hastily ran off, the atmosphere around the courts oozed tension but also excitement and energy from players and supporters alike.
The Bolivian Racquetball Federation (FEBORA) was founded in 1982; since then, it has grown all over the country, and currently seven of Bolivia’s nine departments have established associations and squash sports complexes. ‘Our aim is that everyone in the country can play this sport,’ says FEBORA’s president, Gonzalo Alcoreza. In La Paz, the first complex was completed in 2008, after international acclaim prompted the municipal government to invest in the sport. Now, as the sport’s popularity has skyrocketed, other racquetball complexes have sprung up all over the country. For young people ages 8-16, the training is free at these facilities, which has encouraged young players to take up the sport as an alternative to football.
All levels in Bolivia compete together, which means that up-and-comers have access to the top players, and training even at the lower levels can be intense.
At the international level, Bolivia has competed in every Pan American Games since 1967, yet didn’t earn its first medal until 1991, in the taekwondo competition. At the last games, in 2015, Bolivia took home two bronze and one silver medal, all in racquetball – but still no gold. Could 2019 finally be Bolivia’s year?
Conrrado Moscoso, a Bolivian racquetball celebrity who won three gold medals in the South American Games in 2018, certainly thinks so. After more success at the Open Bolivia American Iris competition in March 2019, he even got a Twitter congratulations from President Morales himself, who thanked Moscoso for ‘giving this joy to #Bolivia,’ proving the sport’s increasing visibility in the country.
Leading up to the Pan American Games, Moscoso says his training is intensifying. He also appreciates the sport’s growing popularity, saying, ‘Before, [racquetball] wasn’t very well known, but I think it’s now coming into fashion.’ His ‘always gold’ motto has seen him earn success so far and will hopefully bring home a medal this summer. Attention will also be on Roland Keller, who’s often at Moscoso’s side on the doubles court, as well as Yazmine Sabja and Valeria Centellas, who won the women’s doubles event at the Racquetball World Championships in 2018, Bolivia’s first gold medal ever in a World Championship.
It is thanks to these successes that the sport is growing. Rojas credits the ‘great coverage that is coming from the champions’ such as Moscoso and Keller. Adding to an improving back squad, all levels in Bolivia compete together, which means that up-and-comers have access to the top players, and training even at the lower levels can be intense. This is a bold strategy, but certainly enterprising, as the overall standard is bound to improve.
The future of racquetball in Bolivia certainly is bright – even gold! – but not every aspect of the sport is shining. At the 2018 South American Games, held in Cochabamba, the number of Bolivian nationals competing in the finals was unprecedented. The trick? Bolivian-born players defended the colours of Argentina and Colombia instead. ‘It’s likely because of the lack of support that we receive,’ Moscoso explains, ‘and the players want to become more professional.’ Simply put, Bolivians head to other countries to train and play. Despite recently increased governmental support, Moscoso says that ‘it still doesn’t settle a lot of the costs.’
Even Alcoreza, FEBORA’s president, acknowledges that ‘the sport is successful because the players with the moral and economic support from their parents dedicate hours to training from a young age.’ He hopes the increased governmental support from the Tunkas programme will help players cover a part of their preparation and participation costs for international tournaments.
That said, the sport’s gender equality is a much more positive feature. Moscoso says that there has always been equal opportunity for women to train and participate. ‘It’s only a question of focussing and taking advantage of every opportunity,’ he says. Gold-winner Yazmine Sabja, now a household name in Bolivia, adds, ‘Winning medals for the country is an honour, a pride and a huge satisfaction.’ Her love for the sport is contagious, and she continues to inspire the next generation of young Bolivian racquetball players.
But the monetary concerns of the sport are far from the minds of the rising stars of Bolivian and international racquetball as they throw themselves all over the court. The positivity, respect and – above all – the desire to win and excel at all levels is readily apparent. The attitude of both the local and international players here at the court is golden – let’s hope the medals this summer are too.
Photos: Emily Kilner
Culturally appropriate birthing rooms are helping to reduce Bolivia’s shockingly high maternal death rate
Señora Ruth Quispe Choque was glowing as she described a beautiful and comfortable birth in a location where she felt like almost as if she were in her own home. She cheekily laughed, recalling her husband ‘trying’ to help, but ended with nothing but praise for the staff and facilities she had entrusted to deliver her baby. She was sitting on one of two wooden beds covered in thick wool blankets in a room with earth-coloured walls and timber floors. A small yet fully equipped kitchen was nestled into the corner of the room.
This could have easily been her bedroom. It was warm, colourful and homely. Yet Ruth was relaxing in the same room she gave birth in, known to the community as a sala de parto con adecuación cultural. This was just one of the ‘intercultural’ birthing rooms that have been in use in Bolivian hospitals and health centres since 2006.
Next to the birthing room, it’s a different world, full of bright light, white walls and sterile stainless-steel medical instruments. The contrast is extreme, a reminder of the struggles faced when combining centuries-old customs with modern scientific practice. Even now, some Bolivian campesinas would rather risk complications or even death giving birth in their own homes than enter into this sterilised setting.
We had travelled to the San Antonio health centre in the municipality of Calamarca, just south of La Paz, to see firsthand how health-care practices in Bolivia, specifically giving birth, have adapted to recognise the distinct cultures and traditions of the nation. This initiative is replicated at a national level, helping mothers such as Ruth deliver their children in safety while still utilising traditional methods. The room in San Antonio’s health centre was completed in October 2017 with the help of Médicos del Mundo, an NGO regulated by the fundamental right to health. They seek to include men and women on equal terms, and contribute to their empowerment through exercising this right.
According to the World Health Organisation, Bolivia has a maternal death rate of 206 per every 100,000 live births. Although this reflects a significant reduction from a decade ago, Bolivia still lags behind its South American neighbours in maternal health (only Guyana has a higher maternal death rate).
‘In Bolivia, ultimately, the women who die are indigenous or peasants,’ said Fabiola Delgadillo, an anthropologist working for Médicos del Mundo. ‘They fear hospitals because of the culture shock both with the people who work there and the facilities.’ Her colleague Dra. Roxana Vargas listed the reasons some expectant mothers give for avoiding modern hospitals: ‘The doctor doesn’t speak our language. Because the room is cold. Because we can’t bring our families. Because we have more confidence in our midwives. Because I need to keep looking after my children and they can’t enter into the hospital and stay with me.’
This fear of modern medicine has contributed to Bolivia’s disproportionately high maternal death. However, with the introduction of SAFCI – the country’s community and intercultural family-health programme – in 2011, maternal health is improving year after year. SAFCI complements the country’s 2007 Vivir Bien policy with increasing health-care coverage that respects the traditional cultural practices of Bolivia’s diverse population.
Bolivia lags behind its South American neighbours in maternal health
These cultural practices are integral in San Antonio’s birthing rooms. For some Aymara women, birth position is an important consideration, and they are free to make themselves comfortable in the facility. The mother’s family can use the kitchen to make warm drinks and soup. Midwives have an important role in many Aymara births, and they work alongside the centre’s doctors.
Traditional customs are also respected. ‘For the women, [the placenta] is like the soul of the child,’ Delgadillo said. ‘They dry it, and when the child is ill they use it as a cure.’ In some communities, mothers bury the placenta alongside desirable objects by the door of their house. Of course, modern biomedical facilities are on standby in case of complication – only a door away at San Antonio – reducing response times when emergency care is necessary.
‘The idea of interculturality – that is, respect for the diverse cultural beliefs and practices of Bolivia’s varied populations – ‘is fundamental… It is the idea of rights,’ said Carolina Delgado, an anthropologist working with the Chiquitano community in Santa Cruz. In the past, many women would stay at home for the birth of their children because hospitals wouldn’t allow them to follow long-established traditions, contributing to the high maternal mortality rate. Now, though, this strategy focussing on maternal care and culturally appropriate birthing rooms which can be utilised alongside modern medical facilities, contributes greatly to reducing maternal mortality in the country.
Various NGOs have been working in the country to improve health provisions over the decades, but it wasn’t until 2006 when maternal health started to see improvement. In 2008, Médicos del Mundo opened its first intercultural birthing room in the altiplano’s Patacamaya municipality. Research led to the construction of the room that incorporated cultural sensibilities and reduced the suspicion of modern medicine that can be prevalent in the Aymaran community.
Médicos del Mundo also work alongside doctors and health workers in the hospitals to educate them about traditional medicine and facilitate cooperation between traditional midwives and health-care workers. ‘They have to accept and adapt,’ Vargas said of the modern doctors with whom she works. She said the doctors, unaccustomed to working with midwives, were at first concerned that they might try to implement modern practices during home births. But trust has grown, and there is now a common respect between the two groups of different medical practitioners.
At the San Antonio Health Centre, this fusion was visible by the brightly coloured and visual posters affixed to the building’s walls – some illustrating symptoms of illnesses, others instructing new mothers how to safely dress their children – which would stick out like a sore thumb in a modern facility. Nurse Claudia Quispe Chipana emphasised that the staff ‘accepts and respects the customs of the community’ despite their modern medical training. A doctor at the centre, Maruja de Mamani, said that the medical care the centre provides ‘is not so vertical, like academic medicine.’ Nevertheless, this transition has not been without challenges. Sometimes entire families, Chipana recalled, want to enter the room when the mother is giving birth. Nevertheless, she said, ‘we have to adapt. ’Here, the mother’s wishes are an integral part of each birth.
In the past, mothers feared that their traditional ceremonies and customs would be ignored if they gave birth in medical institutions rather than in their homes. But now traditional practices of indigenous births are respected, conserving cultural identity and dignity while ensuring every mother has the right to a safe birth.
